Hello from Anthony UK. Could I please obtain some advice on John Tann - List 2 Safe

[antsone]

You have done well to find one with all the original brasswork still intact. At that age so many are missing an escutcheon, or have been dropped on the handle or whatever.

As said, removing the action is a simple job. If it has never been removed it might take a bit of time to locate all the screws, but be patient and you should be fine. They had an annoying habit of grinding off part of the head to make it flush and then filling the slot with some filler. That comes out easily enough but be careful because the grinding can leave the edges of the screws quite sharp- so watch your fingers. I generally tap out to a modern metric size and use new allen bolts, but on a unit as well preserved as that I would leave it all genuine.

Your locksmith will have appropriate blanks. I don't remember them being anything unusual for that model. You shouldn't have to mention to a good locksmith- but do so any way. Ask him to alter the sequence of the levers so that if anybody still has the original key it will no longer function.

Paint types, I am afraid I can't help you!

Hi Chubby,
Thank you for your reply and advice, it is very much appreciated.
I have now removed the locking mechanism and taken that to the locksmith. (Please see post to safeman and photographs)
I didn't have any issues at all with removing the mechanism once I had realised the only thing holding the back cover after removing the bolts was the handle needed removing simply by taking the bolt out from the centre of the handle, it all just came away in one piece then. I should have realised that but probably being a bit over cautious because I don't want to cause any damage and thinking things would be more complicated than expected?
A really good idea about mentioning changing the sequence of the levers, I hadn't even considered that?
I'm now trying to find a local sign writer to redo the original artwork and sure that won't be difficult?
I would like to use original (or as close as possible to original) paint if possible, so will look into that a bit further.
Thanks again for your help.
Kindest regards,
Anthony.