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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    46
    Country: United States

    Default Combination needed for Miller "Standard Time" A10019

    I have spend hours trying to determine the combination to my lock. I feel like the last number may be "45"ish.

    The instructions of these locks seems different then what I'm used to when it comes to other "Standard Time" padocks.

    Instructions say to turn left to the first number to "x", turn right, go past "x" one full turn to "y", turn left to "z", turn right to retract the locking paw, hold and pull the shackle up manually. ANYONE DISAGREE?

    http://imgur.com/a/0PYpT2t

    I OWN THIS LOCK.

    http://imgur.com/a/MynxSaP

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    46
    Country: United States

    Default

    I want to thank one member here for his extra effort in leading me in the direction that ultimately enabled me to open my lock. Out of respect for his privacy I won't name him.

    The lesson here: This lock is an "A" series padlock. You are supposed to clear the dial by turning left a couple of full turns and stop at the first number. In my case, all numbers are divisible by 5 which corresponds to spring load stops on the dial. Intuition sort of dictates that intermediate numbers between 5 and 10, for example, are probably meaningless; it's just too hard to hold the dial at "8". So, the "second" marks on the dial are just for looks. The "minute" marks are useful, if for example my combination is "55-25-45", the user can also dial "11-5-9" instead. The second number is dialed by then turning the dial right, but the first number must be passed in the process. After landing on the second number, the dial is turned left going directly to the third number. Finally, the dial is turned right to retract the bolt. While holding the dial, the shackle is manually pulled from the lock body.

    The way certain code books were generated was through the use of locksmiths. One code book in particular asked locksmiths to drill the lock to determine the combination, making a small hole if the combination from the book didn't work, and call it in to the company.

    After trying my combination several times using the factory, it just wouldn't work. When I first got my lock, I knew the last number had to "45". When turning the dial left, "45" was the only number that would snag slightly. Also, I saw a distinct patina wear between between numbers 25 and 45. This was a forensic clue. If the person who owned my lock originally was right handed, his thumb would have a natural tendency to rub into the face plate where the greatest amount of torque was required. This was in fact accurate forensic information, and the wear mark literally pointed to the final stopping point, meaning my lock needed to be stopped around "55" to open the shackle. I should also state that I could hear a very small repeated rattle of something loose in my lock. But my look looked hardly used when I first got it. So, I didn't want to believe it was broken.

    Going back to my code book dilemma. Was it possible that the locksmith who supplied my combination had to drill an identical lock? Is it possible to open certain dial combination locks by reverse dialing? Did a supposed locksmith decode my lock by dialing right first? The answer may be yes to all these questions, because my lock opens by dialing right first, using the code from a code book. Surprise!!😉

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    46
    Country: United States

    Default

    After all that.....now the lock is working correctly if I dial the combination starting in the left direction as per the code book. Crazy lock! So, I would disregard my conclusion about a locksmith decoding incorrectly.

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