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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,754
    Country: Wales

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    Nice job on the template, in that photo if you look at the tailbar where the bolt needs to extend to, it looks to have the hallmarks of being cut off with an angle grinder- note the darkened edge that's burnt the paint brown from the heat. That would figure if it was converted sometime from the smaller Chubb comb lock to make the bigger 6k75 lock fit.

    So, what was there originally needs to be reinstated, so this is where any modifications or bodges that were made will have to be reversed if you want it back to the combination lock.

    With an S&G 6730 fitted in position on the mount plate, you can offer up a suitably thick piece of mild steel to the tailbar, mark it to shape and size, and then cut it and file accordingly.
    Note that You ideally want the point of contact down the centreline of the S&G bolt, not on the edges of it. You also want the point of contact a close fit, the tailbar plate sliding close to the bolt when it's withdrawn so maximum engagement when the bolt is thrown (extended down).

    Once the plate is made, best to mark out for two fixings, drill and tap threads to fix the plate to the tailbar, say with two cap heads or hex bolts, then when everything is adjusted and all aligned up perfectly, tighten the two bolts, and remove the boltwork from the door. Finally it's tack weld the plate at a few points front and back, and then run good seam welds around the overlaps for maximum strength.

    It's good practise to then clean the area up, remove any spatter (though even Chubb left it sometimes) give it all a spray over with a close match paint and you're good to go.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Bulgaria
    Posts
    686
    Country: Bulgaria

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    What Huw has said with knobs on. He knows exactly what to do.

    As you are considering putting on an S & G, so it won't be original and authentic, another approach would be to mount the lock in addition to the key lock. Making a new tail bolt to act with a second lock is scarcely any more work than amending the existing one. Obviously you would need to drill the door to accept the spindle, tap the back etc. but you would, then, have a dual control safe.

    Whilst at it there is a very simply installed glass plate to suit all of the S & G locks. You could install that and route a dead aed.

    Just a couple of thoughts.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Aberdeenshire
    Posts
    697
    Country: Great Britain

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    [QUOTE=whitepointer;30180]Hi All, and great to be a part of the forum. I have a Chubb safe and i am trying to:

    1. identify the model and year of manufacture
    2. Location of manufacture.
    2. The original colour codes for colour matching
    3. Weight - i intend to have a plate made up with all the spec's
    4. lock type - I have removed the locking mechanism to take it to a locksmith to get a key
    5. I don't believe the door can be removed - if it can i would like to know how
    6. what are the numbers on the locking rods -= what do they mean?

    Thank you all.

    Cheers[/QUOTE


    The numbers on the bolt ends don't tally with Chubb UK numbers of the period which suggests that is was made by Chubb AU.

    From the poor photograph the safe looks almost identical to a UK Leamington. The UK codes for the Leamington are L or VZ and the Mark II is VX if youshould come across any more marks.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    18
    Country: Australia

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    Quote Originally Posted by Huw Eastwood View Post
    Nice job on the template, in that photo if you look at the tailbar where the bolt needs to extend to, it looks to have the hallmarks of being cut off with an angle grinder- note the darkened edge that's burnt the paint brown from the heat. That would figure if it was converted sometime from the smaller Chubb comb lock to make the bigger 6k75 lock fit.

    So, what was there originally needs to be reinstated, so this is where any modifications or bodges that were made will have to be reversed if you want it back to the combination lock.

    With an S&G 6730 fitted in position on the mount plate, you can offer up a suitably thick piece of mild steel to the tailbar, mark it to shape and size, and then cut it and file accordingly.
    Note that You ideally want the point of contact down the centreline of the S&G bolt, not on the edges of it. You also want the point of contact a close fit, the tailbar plate sliding close to the bolt when it's withdrawn so maximum engagement when the bolt is thrown (extended down).

    Once the plate is made, best to mark out for two fixings, drill and tap threads to fix the plate to the tailbar, say with two cap heads or hex bolts, then when everything is adjusted and all aligned up perfectly, tighten the two bolts, and remove the boltwork from the door. Finally it's tack weld the plate at a few points front and back, and then run good seam welds around the overlaps for maximum strength.

    It's good practise to then clean the area up, remove any spatter (though even Chubb left it sometimes) give it all a spray over with a close match paint and you're good to go.
    Thank you Huw, your knowledge is fantastic.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    18
    Country: Australia

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chubby View Post
    What Huw has said with knobs on. He knows exactly what to do.

    As you are considering putting on an S & G, so it won't be original and authentic, another approach would be to mount the lock in addition to the key lock. Making a new tail bolt to act with a second lock is scarcely any more work than amending the existing one. Obviously you would need to drill the door to accept the spindle, tap the back etc. but you would, then, have a dual control safe.

    Whilst at it there is a very simply installed glass plate to suit all of the S & G locks. You could install that and route a dead aed.

    Just a couple of thoughts.
    Very clever, that is worthwhile looking at too. I am unsure how the glass plate would go in. is there a pic or diagram you could point me too ?

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    18
    Country: Australia

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    [QUOTE=safeman;30205]
    Quote Originally Posted by whitepointer View Post
    Hi All, and great to be a part of the forum. I have a Chubb safe and i am trying to:

    1. identify the model and year of manufacture
    2. Location of manufacture.
    2. The original colour codes for colour matching
    3. Weight - i intend to have a plate made up with all the spec's
    4. lock type - I have removed the locking mechanism to take it to a locksmith to get a key
    5. I don't believe the door can be removed - if it can i would like to know how
    6. what are the numbers on the locking rods -= what do they mean?

    Thank you all.

    Cheers[/QUOTE


    The numbers on the bolt ends don't tally with Chubb UK numbers of the period which suggests that is was made by Chubb AU.

    From the poor photograph the safe looks almost identical to a UK Leamington. The UK codes for the Leamington are L or VZ and the Mark II is VX if youshould come across any more marks.
    Thank you. i cannot see any but i am keen to know the year of manufacture too.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Bulgaria
    Posts
    686
    Country: Bulgaria

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    You don't need a diagram for the glass plate. I don't have the dimensions, but it is slightly larger than the lock. You simply drill the door to suit the glass plate, which has holes which, of course, coincide with the holes in the lock. The plate comes complete with rubber grommets to secure the plate from shocks. Mount that and the lock in the normal way.
    Only thing which might be a concern is if the lock pan is deep enough to take the thickness of the glass plate and fixings. I am unsure how deep that actually is. I used to have a S & G catalogue which contains all such dimensions, but I lost that years ago. Somebody here will know, or you could look on their website.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,754
    Country: Wales

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    Safeman, have you a picture of an "almost identical" Leamington as I'm thinking it would have to be an early variant I've never encountered.
    Ive not seen a UK Leamington, Wulfrun, Warwick, Standard, Commerce etc that looks like whitepointer's example here.

    This safe appears quite different on a few aspects:

    1- Hinges- Most Chubbs of that era (50s~60s) had more elongated carriages and were mounted vertically, whereas these are shorter, 'blockier' and horizontal. The few UK models I can think of which had horizontal carriages were different from these, in having distinctive horizontal flutes across a waved contoured front.

    2- Boltwork- only 2 sliding bolts is very unusual for Chubb, most have a minimum of 3 moving bolts to lock the door. All the old Uk models mentioned above had 3.

    3- Position of handle- unusual again, as many Chubb handles are in-line vertically with the lock(s), ie comb dial or keyhole central and directly above/below the handle. This one is clearly off centre to the left.


    I have no idea what this is though, but I have seen they pop up every now and then on the Oz secondhand market, and always it seems with a comb lock.
    Dealers refer to them as a Commerce, but whether it's an Oz market Commerce or not, I really haven't a clue.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Aberdeenshire
    Posts
    697
    Country: Great Britain

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    [QUOTE=Huw Eastwood;30211]
    Safeman, have you a picture of an "almost identical" Leamington

    No Huw, I don't. Must learn to hold my tongue on uncertain ground.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Bulgaria
    Posts
    686
    Country: Bulgaria

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    The Leamingtons I have seen had a live aed on nylon cord running down between the lock and the carriages. I think it works off the lock bolt.
    I don't like nylon cord for live aed, so would replace it with stainless steel and a thermal link.

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