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Thread: Chatwood safe

  1. #11
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    Thanks a lot for your information! I appreciate.

  2. #12
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    [QUOTE=Harrishawk;30125]So, if I understand right:
    With every standard chatwood safe you can get by the lock. Only remove some consealing on the screws.
    I’am I right?
    It is this save we are talking about:
    [/QUOTE

    Yes, you are right about the removal of the screws but the safe you illustrate here is not the safe you show in your first post which is of a lower quality.

  3. #13
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    Country: Netherlands

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    [QUOTE=safeman;30130]
    Quote Originally Posted by Harrishawk View Post
    So, if I understand right:
    With every standard chatwood safe you can get by the lock. Only remove some consealing on the screws.
    I’am I right?
    It is this save we are talking about:
    [/QUOTE

    Yes, you are right about the removal of the screws but the safe you illustrate here is not the safe you show in your first post which is of a lower quality.
    Maybe not the right way, I jumped into this thread without starting it.
    The picture I post is the safe I am talking about. Is this one lower quality? I can buy this for 120 euro but no key and I need to be shure I can get to the lock.
    If it is a hard time to get there and a lot of damage I won’t buy it I guess.

  4. #14
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    [QUOTE=Harrishawk;30131]
    Quote Originally Posted by safeman View Post

    Maybe not the right way, I jumped into this thread without starting it.
    The picture I post is the safe I am talking about. Is this one lower quality? I can buy this for 120 euro but no key and I need to be shure I can get to the lock.
    If it is a hard time to get there and a lot of damage I won’t buy it I guess.

    My mistake not noticing the change of author.
    Your picture is of a higher grade of Chatwood and looks like a List 3.

    My previous reply for the List 3 still holds.

    " The chamber containing the fire-resistant composition is set into the angle frame of the lockcase holding the moving bolts and held by countersunk screws at the sides (maybe even top and bottom) These screws will have been concealed by putty filler before painting but should be quite east to reveal.

    The keylock inside will simply be bolted on to the backplate of the door inside."

    It's a very simple process.

    When these screws are replaced they can simply be re-touched with paint or you could apply a filler to completely conceal them before painting.

  5. #15
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    Thank you! Can you tell something about the year it was made?
    Regards

    mkilcojefjhr 1


    [QUOTE=safeman;30132]
    Quote Originally Posted by Harrishawk View Post


    My mistake not noticing the change of author.
    Your picture is of a higher grade of Chatwood and looks like a List 3.

    My previous reply for the List 3 still holds.

    " The chamber containing the fire-resistant composition is set into the angle frame of the lockcase holding the moving bolts and held by countersunk screws at the sides (maybe even top and bottom) These screws will have been concealed by putty filler before painting but should be quite east to reveal.

    The keylock inside will simply be bolted on to the backplate of the door inside."

    It's a very simple process.

    When these screws are replaced they can simply be re-touched with paint or you could apply a filler to completely conceal them before painting.

  6. #16
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    [QUOTE=Harrishawk;30134]Thank you! Can you tell something about the year it was made?
    Regards

    All I can tell you is that it's pre-1875 with the first recorded number on record being
    24621 in that year.

    I attach a photograph of a List 3 showing only two fixing holes each side. Good news perhaps.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Chatwood List 3 1883 (2).JPG 
Views:	16 
Size:	85.3 KB 
ID:	20414 The. internals will probably be different from yours.

  7. #17
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    [QUOTE=safeman;30135][QUOTE=Harrishawk;30134]Thank you! Can you tell something about the year it was made?
    Regards


    If all goes well and you remove the fixing screws, it is unlikely that the fire-chamber will just become unattached unaided as time and paintwork will have given it a reluctance to shift.

    Beware that if it partly detaches for whatever reason while the door is closed or partly closed you will have a problem as it could jam between the lockcase and the body frame.

    It can be safely coaxed out however by placing a solid metal object like a hammer head against the safe body in a position where on attempting to close the door it will hit the hammer head first and in so doing encourage the chamber to edge out of the frame. A few gentle such strikes should allow the chamber to become safely unattached for removal.

  8. #18
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    I haven’t bought is yet. But when I do, I’ll take pictures!
    Thanks a lot for your reply and help.

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