new milners and some questions

**stephane** · 01-04-18, 08:40 AM

No chubby, i ve checked well but nothing and there is not a big coat of paint so don’t think other numbers than those on the pivot are present
Could you explain the ‘list’ designation in the milners product ? I am a little bit lost because this ´list 2´ is 35 years more recent that my list 3
I assumed the ´list’ number sticky to the year evolution so higher number be more recent

**Chubby** · 01-04-18, 08:57 AM

No, list has nothing to do with date of manufacture. It refers to the quality of the safe and the use for which it was intended.

**stephane** · 01-04-18, 11:59 AM

Thanks guys for explains. I don’t have problem with the lock, keylock work very smoother but the hand lever has an unpleasant ´play’ : it move lateraly probably the over using from decade. The old lady told me his grandfather/father used it several times by day. And The round escutcheon turn arround the lever. I can live with something look the antique age but with the mechanical side i prefer something work perfectly. And with this serious play i don’t know if the lock system could be block something in closed position. Probably a slim spacer behind the lever will fix it.

**Chubby** · 01-04-18, 12:30 PM

Yes, you just need to find where the play is happening and pack it accordingly. It isn't rocket science!

**stephane** · 01-04-18, 12:59 PM

Yes chubby i am just brake with that because i need to remove the internal panel and Screws are cover by original paint. No way by outside.

**safeman** · 01-04-18, 01:59 PM

Originally Posted by stephane

Yes chubby i am just brake with that because i need to remove the internal panel and Screws are cover by original paint. No way by outside.

From your description it sounds as if the handle is loose on the spindle. If this is correct and assuming that you have tightened the screw on the side of the handle, it should be possible to make a shim from a piece of tin to take up the space between spindle and handle on the outside.

If I understand the problem correctly I suggest that you cut a strip of tin (can) the width of the spindle and long enough to cover the top, end and partly underneath the spindle before lightly hammering the handle back over the shim till it reaches the rose and the fixing hole is re-aligned.

Do not force it if it appears to be too tight as it will be very difficult to remove the handle again. Just remove the lower part of the shim and it should then fit over the spindle tightly.

It is unlikely that the 'follower' on the inside of the spindle is loose unless the spinle itself is worn.

**stephane** · 01-04-18, 02:31 PM

Yes chubby i am just brake with that because i need to remove the internal panel and Screws are cover by original paint. No way by outside.

**stephane** · 01-04-18, 11:04 PM

yes safeman you are right. but impossible to remove the handle and i do not want damage it. i will go through the back. there is some fine pure white "dust" pretty much everywhere, would it be asbestos ?

**safeman** · 02-04-18, 09:23 AM

Originally Posted by stephane

yes safeman you are right. but impossible to remove the handle and i do not want damage it. i will go through the back. there is some fine pure white "dust" pretty much everywhere, would it be asbestos ?

Stephane, I don't understand why you cannot remove the handle. Is this because it is not the actual handle that is loose? If you wish to remove it you may like to try the following. Remove the screw (shown arrowed). While pulling strongly on the lower part of the handle, with a soft faced hammer tap the top of the handle downwards while jerking the handle outwards. The 'rose' under the handle is not attached but held in position by the handle.

I have also attached a picture which shows what the inside of the handle mechanism looks like and the lugs to which the fire chamber is screwed. The follower may be fixed to the spindle by a tapered pin.

The dust will not be asbestos. More likely fine alkali dust from the fire-proofing.