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Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    8
    Country: United States

    Default Tips or instruction on dismantling some hardware on my old Diebold please?

    Could someone let me know how this assembly comes apart? I don't want to attack it and mark it up or break it. I want to clean and grease it and have it rechromed. Not in that order....:) thanks a ton!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20180202_123342.jpg   20180202_122600.jpg   20180202_122537.jpg  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    126
    Country: United States

    Default

    I'm not qualified to say what practices Diebold used so take this with a grain of salt. On old Moslers, they would sometimes use a tapered pin to hold assemblies together. It is hard to tell with pictures, but if those pins do not go all the way through I would be suspect that they could be tapered. If so, they will be very tight and you will need to work them carefully so as not to damage the heads. Hopefully someone with Diebold experience will jump in with advise.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Cleveland, Ohio USA
    Posts
    1,259
    Country: United States

    Default

    The pin that holds the outer section on is tapered, meaning it will only tap out in one direction. If you look closely one end is slightly larger than the other. They can sometimes be difficult to knock out.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    126
    Country: United States

    Default

    Looking closer I see it is one pin and the head looks to be by the threaded handle hole. As Doug says, tap from the other end and it will push out. With how much force? Who knows. I would start with a brass punch but it may take a steel one. Warming the main piece may help.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    8
    Country: United States

    Default

    Great info guys. I did notice one side is a little larger. I'll use a delron mallet and if that doesn't work, a brass hammer.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    126
    Country: United States

    Default

    One thing to keep in mind when having parts replated is where do you NOT want plating. Areas such as where parts fit together, threads, fitted parts that rotate, and that tapered pin may not fit if they have a build up of new plating. Talk with the plater about what areas cannot have build up. Sometimes the person accepting parts may not be aware of this issue.

    I learned this the hard way but it was a lesson well learned. It is not much fun filing, sanding, or grinding built up plating materials from a new shiny part trying to make it fit while not causing unintended damage. I now have an intimate discussion, usually in person, (about 150 miles) with my plater about complicated parts. I do send some parts in with explicit instructions and labeling on each part. I now have a good rapport with the manager and he understands my needs and will call for more info if he is not sure what I want.

    There are not to many things more enjoyable than freshly plated parts.

    59v72t 1

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    8
    Country: United States

    Default

    Good to keep in mind! I'll let them know. So far the pin hasn't budged. I'm a watchmaker by trade so have some ideas about a big vice and a jig I'll make to support it safely and try and force it out.

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