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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Idaho, USA
    Posts
    7
    Country: United States

    Default

    I'm a safe and vault specialist in southwest Idaho. This particular Diebold Bankers was in rough shape--unknown combo, several missing or broken parts (casters, timelock, inner door, etc), and wasn't working very well at all. I opened it with a 1/8" hole and serviced the lock. The customer listed it for sale, but after many months with zero interest, I ended up trading for it just to save it from the scrapyard. After removing the lock, the safe sat in my garage for several years until a collector made me an offer on it. He wanted a bronze lock body and chrome dial, so I retrofitted it with a S&G M6730 and convertible spyproof dial. When all was said and done, I lost a little money on the safe but ended up with a Diebold Anti-Dynamite in my collection. I have plenty more pics if you're interested.

    Lance
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  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,292
    Country: Wales

    Default

    Great photos Shieldr, always enjoy seeing the gritty details like that. Always impresses me the lengths they went to on those oldies.
    Imagine the effect on the combination lock of just the tiniest amount of backlash in that gear train, and yet they achieved it and made it to last with just basic spur gears. Very impressive, cheers for posting.
    Huw

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    8
    Country: United States

    Default Diebpld III

    Here are some Pics with most of the hardware removed.
    Was hoping to find a hidden weep hole or similar passage to get lubrication to the inner mechanism but no such thing so far.
    Just lubing what I could from the outside seemed to have solved the dial sticking problem but I would like do more as its apart now.
    One thought was to remove the door, lay it flat, and try to oil by letting it seep in from both sides.
    Delaminating the door sounds very difficult and maybe above the availability of my tools and knowledge so I hope it does not come to that.
    I am a newer collector and try to not do anything above my skills that would cause damage (thats my story and I am sticking to it)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0684.JPG   IMG_0685.JPG   IMG_0705.JPG   IMG_0707.JPG   IMG_0708.JPG  


  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    8
    Country: United States

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Shieldr View Post
    Let me just say that delaminating a safe door is a pain in the butt. I've done several of these, and it's definitely a workout.
    Wow! Thanks for posting those Pics. Now I understand how to disassemble if I need to.
    That looks like it took a lot of time.
    Sure is a beautiful looking piece though and well worth it.

    (Have my eye on an old cannon ball style from an old bank in a little old mining town by me. Hope t get over and take a look).

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    leeds
    Posts
    199
    Country: Great Britain

    Default

    Nice safes and pictures, I have one of the anti dynamite locks in my collection somewhere, so nice to see the units they were fitted to

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Idaho, USA
    Posts
    7
    Country: United States

    Default

    The screws that hold the layers together are torqued down pretty tight. I usually have to use a punch and hammer to loosen them before they'll unscrew. Also, they used some sort of putty to help blend the edges before painting, so anyone who plans to delaminate a door should be ready to re-putty and paint the edges.

    The gear train on the safe I posted was held in place with poured lead. Guess they did that to keep the slop to a minimum. Makes it kind of difficult to remove, though.

    Oh, and fun fact: apparently one of the techniques used by early safecrackers involved delaminating the door. They'd beat the front of the safe with a hammer to expose the ends of the screws (like the ones that are visible to the left of your dial, Mordy ), then drill them out. They'd continue this process layer after layer until there wasn't anything left of the door!

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    8
    Country: United States

    Default Diebold IV

    Quote Originally Posted by Shieldr View Post
    The screws that hold the layers together are torqued down pretty tight. I usually have to use a punch and hammer to loosen them before they'll unscrew. Also, they used some sort of putty to help blend the edges before painting, so anyone who plans to delaminate a door should be ready to re-putty and paint the edges.

    The gear train on the safe I posted was held in place with poured lead. Guess they did that to keep the slop to a minimum. Makes it kind of difficult to remove, though.

    Oh, and fun fact: apparently one of the techniques used by early safecrackers involved delaminating the door. They'd beat the front of the safe with a hammer to expose the ends of the screws (like the ones that are visible to the left of your dial, Mordy ), then drill them out. They'd continue this process layer after layer until there wasn't anything left of the door!



    Well here it is all done and buttoned up.Everything working smooth.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    8
    Country: United States

    Default

    Trying that pic again

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    8
    Country: United States

    Default Diebold dynamite proof inner safe

    Got it now
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0716.JPG  

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