Need help with 8 big safes

[Gary Stephenson]

"The Cash Ratings will be approximately £4000 for the Sterling, £8000 for the Executive and £10000 for the Trustee but my personal belief is that these Ratner figures are unrealistically high."

interesting, If it was my money going in it between the Ratner and something modern with 10k cover like a Chubb Duoguard, I would pick the Ratner every time.

[Chubby]

Amen to that.

[Huw Eastwood]

Safeman's surprised me with those figures, I'd have thought the Sterling would be ok for £7-8k, perhaps even £10k at a push, and more like £15k on the Ratner. Realise ratings are always subjective and it varies between insurers, but they seem a bit low.

If I had 15 grand in cash laying around I'd happily keep it in either of those two before any modern euro grade 1 or 2 box!

[safeman]

Safeman's surprised me with those figures, I'd have thought the Sterling would be ok for £7-8k, perhaps even £10k at a push, and more like £15k on the Ratner. Realise ratings are always subjective and it varies between insurers, but they seem a bit low.

If I had 15 grand in cash laying around I'd happily keep it in either of those two before any modern euro grade 1 or 2 box!

Hello Huw,

As regards the Ratner, I think I was mistaken in thinking it was one of the post 1970 Ratners made by Tann whereas from the handle it appears more like a T4 which had a rating at the time of only £6000 for reasons which I cannot go into on this site.

Why was a Sterling IV safe made in 1974 given cash rating of £2000 yet today seems to be good for £10,000?

The main problem with safe ratings is that decisions by insurers were usually based on in-house makers tests (demonstrations). You say that you believe the ratings to be too low but the reason the British safe industry has been descimated is that the unsubstantiated commercially driven high ratings caused long established companies like Tann to go out of business after almost 200 years.

When the LPC came to establish the British safe testing authority in 1990 at Borehamwood I was invited to work with the test team in setting up the training techniques which reinforced my belief that despite the misgivings, made me realise that this was the most reliable means of grading a safe as it included all the equipment and methods that could be brought to bear in reality (apart from the fatigue factor).

There are ongoing discussions regarding the standards of some European test houses.

[Chubby]

It has just occurred to me to ask, are any of them anchored in?

[stevenkuk]

Good point chubby... im not sure as i havent tried to move them yet.

[Gary Stephenson]

I was warned by some American openers definitely in the body fill, not just the sealing tape.

[safeman]

I was warned by some American openers definitely in the body fill, not just the sealing tape.

Thank you Gary, that is not generally known.

However, as far as stevenkuk's original enquiry is concerned regarding the disposal of these units, there should be no problems regarding the Remington Rand cabinet.

The Health & Safety Executive advises - "as long as the asbestos is in good condition and is located somewhere where it cannot be easily damaged, then it shouldn't be a risk to you".

[stevenkuk]

Wow, thank you everyone for your help.

Gary: Thanks for giving me the heads up! That cabinet is huge... I think that will be the most difficult one to remove and now i know that it may have asbestos makes it even more difficult.

Huw:

The sizes (in cm) of the following safe
Pic 1: chatwood milner - 63d x 73w x 185h
pic 2: Chubbs - 60d x 70w x 80h (close up of the photo shows the number etched in the middle bolt is H1611 THANKS SAFEMAN!)
pic 3: chubbs - 60d x 60w x 130h
pic 4: remington rand - 100d x 130w x 165h
pic 5: stratford sterling - 70d x 70w x 110h
pic6: chubbs - 65d x 65w x 175h
pic 7: ratner - 70d x 70w x 150h

Chubby - there is no number on the top of the door for the chubbs in pic 3. I checked everwhere, but safeman has pointed out the number is on the middle bolt (H1611)

Gary - funny you should say that... theres a note in the Ratner which explained that this was used for cash!

So should i check the end of the chubbs bolts to find more markings to identify the model?

[safeman]

[QUOTE=stevenkuk;27702]Wow, thank you everyone for your help.

Gary: Thanks for giving me the heads up! That cabinet is huge... I think that will be the most difficult one to remove and now i know that it may have asbestos makes it even more difficult.


Remington Rand - Giving this some thought I would be very surprised if asbestos had been used as insulation. Much more likely to be Gypsum (plaster of Paris) filled door and body cast over a chicken wire mesh to give the whole structure strength and rigidity to minimise the chance of bursting open in a building collapse.

There might be a little asbestos in any tape used to help seal the door rebates.

Lastly, I would estimate the weight to be in the region of 650 kgs.