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  1. #1
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    Nov 2013
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    Default early yale bicentric

    this is before 1934 ,there is no writing about super pin tumbler/graphite. It only has 2 (4) pins holding case on body. Pete, this is the one with the older sager keyway (y91) A y54 fits the change side .but really needs the larger blank ? The Master side has the 999CA blank and has a master pin in #2 & #5 holes Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	18331 More pic's of the inside next.
    These pins on the bottm do not go thru body,IF you drill you will enter the plug cavities on lower area. No i did not drill thru,not being sure i drilled a little and they came out with an easy out. Case seems 1/16 shorter than my other 937's bodies,not including base.

  2. #2
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    Default more pic's

    All these pic's are turning sideways when i post them ?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    3 out of 24 photo's is all that would upload with iphone,have to use other camera

  3. #3
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    Default few more pic's

    trying again,older phone let's me upload,apple phone only uploads about 2 -3 out of 25-30 ? This padlock i think i'll save,it isn't stamped 937 on body
    like others.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    reassembly is next and all new pins and springs and more pictures

  4. #4
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    Default reassembly

    hopefully i can upload pic today,lock is finished and works great,hanging with the others. this uses larger case pins than the other bicentrics. The top case pin did go thru and hold the opener and springs like the other's. The 2 bottom case pins are 1/8 " ,same as top one. Still need to find the larger blank for the y54 change side..Y54 works good,but is not correct blank ? Back to old camera
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Couple of file marks and the lock works great
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2 pin 27.jpg  

  5. #5
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    Aug 2013
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    Default

    Wow, very cool!

  6. #6
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    Aug 2012
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    USA
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    Country: United States

    Default early Yale Bicentric

    Just wondering what others use to get the "patina" back on the new shiny pin's. Or something close... not really patina, but I think you all know what I mean......age the brass................Donnie

  7. #7
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    Default

    Never gave it a thought. That is a good question ? i just hang mine up or lay them on a shelf,depending on the material,seems to me the brass ages faster than the red brass or bronze.?
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    the areas are still pretty bright,maybe someone can answer your question,the padlocks i see from India seem very well aged,even when they are new.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Tonawanda, NY, USA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Donnie View Post
    Just wondering what others use to get the "patina" back on the new shiny pin's. Or something close... not really patina, but I think you all know what I mean......age the brass................Donnie
    There are several commercial products for this application including Brass Ager, Brass Darkening Solution and Brass Black. I use Brass Ager to simulate US10B (aged bronze) and US 5 (antique brass) on US3 (bright brass). Google to find source(s).

    Pete Schifferli

  9. #9
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    Country: Wales

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pschiffe View Post
    There are several commercial products for this application including Brass Ager, Brass Darkening Solution and Brass Black. I use Brass Ager to simulate US10B (aged bronze) and US 5 (antique brass) on US3 (bright brass). Google to find source(s).

    Pete Schifferli
    You've recomended commercial solutions a few times Peter, but have never actually explained why or what you've used them for, nor what degrees of success and effect you have achieved with them. Can you tell us a bit more and post some pictures?

  10. #10
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    Oct 2010
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    Tonawanda, NY, USA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Huw Eastwood View Post
    You've recomended commercial solutions a few times Peter, but have never actually explained why or what you've used them for, nor what degrees of success and effect you have achieved with them. Can you tell us a bit more and post some pictures?
    The following is adapted from an item I posted to The ClearStar Security Network security professionals' Internet forum back in 2002:

    I found a product which you can use to "change" plain brass goods to antique brass (BHMA 609/US5) or oil rubbed bronze (BHMA613/US10B). Brass Ager is the acid liquid used to create this effect. You must start with clean un-coated brass, Iosso metal polish does a good job of removing tarnish and dirt from the base metal. If the part is lacquered, this coating must first be removed, we use a h.d. commercial aerosol called Klean-Strip Premium Stripper. Once the brass is prepared, the best way is to place the solution in a glass or plastic container, do not use metal; and then submerge the parts and watch for the desired color to emerge. You can also apply it with a brush but this does not yield as uniform a color. The process only takes a few minutes, then rise with clear water and dry. To approximate the antique finish, rub the surfaces with 000 steel wool until the desired highlights are created. Finally, top coat the new finish with a clear matte protector like Rust-Oleum 7902. Rubber gloves and eye protection are recommended to shield from the acid.

    Pete Schifferli

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