early yale bicentric

[Donnie]

Just wondering what others use to get the "patina" back on the new shiny pin's. Or something close... not really patina, but I think you all know what I mean......age the brass................Donnie

[nathanbonstein]

Never gave it a thought. That is a good question ? i just hang mine up or lay them on a shelf,depending on the material,seems to me the brass ages faster than the red brass or bronze.?

the areas are still pretty bright,maybe someone can answer your question,the padlocks i see from India seem very well aged,even when they are new.

[Pschiffe]

Just wondering what others use to get the "patina" back on the new shiny pin's. Or something close... not really patina, but I think you all know what I mean......age the brass................Donnie

There are several commercial products for this application including Brass Ager, Brass Darkening Solution and Brass Black. I use Brass Ager to simulate US10B (aged bronze) and US 5 (antique brass) on US3 (bright brass). Google to find source(s).

Pete Schifferli

[Huw Eastwood]

There are several commercial products for this application including Brass Ager, Brass Darkening Solution and Brass Black. I use Brass Ager to simulate US10B (aged bronze) and US 5 (antique brass) on US3 (bright brass). Google to find source(s).

Pete Schifferli

You've recomended commercial solutions a few times Peter, but have never actually explained why or what you've used them for, nor what degrees of success and effect you have achieved with them. Can you tell us a bit more and post some pictures?

[Pschiffe]

You've recomended commercial solutions a few times Peter, but have never actually explained why or what you've used them for, nor what degrees of success and effect you have achieved with them. Can you tell us a bit more and post some pictures?

The following is adapted from an item I posted to The ClearStar Security Network security professionals' Internet forum back in 2002:

I found a product which you can use to "change" plain brass goods to antique brass (BHMA 609/US5) or oil rubbed bronze (BHMA613/US10B). Brass Ager is the acid liquid used to create this effect. You must start with clean un-coated brass, Iosso metal polish does a good job of removing tarnish and dirt from the base metal. If the part is lacquered, this coating must first be removed, we use a h.d. commercial aerosol called Klean-Strip Premium Stripper. Once the brass is prepared, the best way is to place the solution in a glass or plastic container, do not use metal; and then submerge the parts and watch for the desired color to emerge. You can also apply it with a brush but this does not yield as uniform a color. The process only takes a few minutes, then rise with clear water and dry. To approximate the antique finish, rub the surfaces with 000 steel wool until the desired highlights are created. Finally, top coat the new finish with a clear matte protector like Rust-Oleum 7902. Rubber gloves and eye protection are recommended to shield from the acid.

Pete Schifferli

[Huw Eastwood]

The following is adapted from an item I posted to The ClearStar Security Network security professionals' Internet forum back in 2002:

I found a product which you can use to "change" plain brass goods to antique brass (BHMA 609/US5) or oil rubbed bronze (BHMA613/US10B). Brass Ager is the acid liquid used to create this effect. You must start with clean un-coated brass, Iosso metal polish does a good job of removing tarnish and dirt from the base metal. If the part is lacquered, this coating must first be removed, we use a h.d. commercial aerosol called Klean-Strip Premium Stripper. Once the brass is prepared, the best way is to place the solution in a glass or plastic container, do not use metal; and then submerge the parts and watch for the desired color to emerge. You can also apply it with a brush but this does not yield as uniform a color. The process only takes a few minutes, then rise with clear water and dry. To approximate the antique finish, rub the surfaces with 000 steel wool until the desired highlights are created. Finally, top coat the new finish with a clear matte protector like Rust-Oleum 7902. Rubber gloves and eye protection are recommended to shield from the acid.

Pete Schifferli

Thought all that was familiar Pete, it's what you posted in reply to the reproduction Brighton catches that I made a couple of years ago:

https://www.antique-locks.com/showth...hton-fasteners

Always curious as to how effective, fast and realistic the commercial solutions are compared to the common homebrews and methods, so am still interested to know what sort of items, parts etc, restorations, reproductions, or whatever it is that you've used them on, and to see the different finishes you have achieved with them.

[Pschiffe]

Thought all that was familiar Pete, it's what you posted in reply to the reproduction Brighton catches that I made a couple of years ago:

https://www.antique-locks.com/showth...hton-fasteners

Always curious as to how effective, fast and realistic the commercial solutions are compared to the common homebrews and methods, so am still interested to know what sort of items, parts etc, restorations, reproductions, or whatever it is that you've used them on, and to see the different finishes you have achieved with them.

I'm a semi-retired locksmith and unfortunately don't have any before and/or after examples here that I could take a picture of. I have used it to simulate aged bronze and antique brass on solid brass goods with satisfactory results as stated. My most frequent application has been on lock cylinders and collars. With cylinders, I recommend that you disassemble and remove all internal parts and then just treat the housing itself. All I can suggest is that you procure some Brass Ager and give it a try. I don't know if it is sold on your side of the pond, there may be similar products with different names, wish I knew the chemical composition. Sorry I couldn't be more specific, but that's all I can tell you.

Pete Schifferli

[Pschiffe]

I'm a semi-retired locksmith and unfortunately don't have any before and/or after examples here that I could take a picture of. I have used it to simulate aged bronze and antique brass on solid brass goods with satisfactory results as stated. My most frequent application has been on lock cylinders and collars. With cylinders, I recommend that you disassemble and remove all internal parts and then just treat the housing itself. All I can suggest is that you procure some Brass Ager and give it a try. I don't know if it is sold on your side of the pond, there may be similar products with different names, wish I knew the chemical composition. Sorry I couldn't be more specific, but that's all I can tell you.

Pete Schifferli

I recently replenished my supply of Brass Ager and note the the latest iteration label now says:
"CONTENTS: Phosphoric Acid, Copper Sulfate, Muriatic Acid, Selenium Dioxide" and also "Taiwan"
Perhaps this is of interest to some?

Pete Schifferli