Welcome to our world exploring the Historical, Political and Technological aspects of Locks, Keys and Safes

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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Bulgaria
    Posts
    686
    Country: Bulgaria

    Default

    The idea is to put a piece of very hard material between the bad guy and the lock. That makes matters much more difficult. Also a piece of toughened glass which will go to dust if drilled. Relockers are attached to the glass plate and fire as soon as it is drilled and before the drill gets to touch the lock face.

    I can quite sympathise with your idea of using a door lock, and why you want to make things cheaply as the safe will have almost no value when it is finished. On the other side, a door lock like that is certainly a weak point in the system. Having said that, how often are safes accessed by a criminal picking a lock?

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Carnegie, PA
    Posts
    17
    Country: United States

    Default

    Finally finished the safe. Painted it base coat - clear coat green metallic (1992 Ford) and black. Saved the original pin striping on the interior doors. Lined the shelves with green felt. I wanted to use the dial ring with the Pittsburg name on it so I machined a dummy brass combo dial to go with it. The finials are made from 1-1/8" hexagon brass bar. Works for me.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails sf1.jpg   sf2.jpg   sf4.jpg   sf5.jpg   sf6.jpg  

    sf7.jpg   sf8.jpg  

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