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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Cleveland, Ohio USA
    Posts
    1,468
    Country: United States

    Default

    In checking pictures of Pillard locks including the ones posted here, I have noticed that several have had the wheel gate openings filed wider to account for wear. This type of wear results in a misalignment of the gates at the fence and the lock becomes difficult to open. Generally it is the last wheel number that gets the abuse, but it is the first number dialed that shows the most misalignment due to the additive wear of all the wheels. Dealing with this problem is usually solved by slightly passing the number or numbers given.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    3
    Country: Cape Verde

    Default 1871 Pillard's Safe combination Lock Brass Dial

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ID:	17954

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    12
    Country: Canada

    Default Re: Problematic Antique Safe w Pillards No 19 Lock

    Eureka!
    I finally had some time to address this again recently, and to recruit some expert help from a local locksmith that specializes in antique locks. He was able to take the numbers my father had left, and all of the Pillards lock tips from you all, and work his way thru an opening.

    It turned out the numbers from my father were Close, but would only work because he had also been spinning slightly past on each turn - AND we confirmed that he HAD inverted some of the numbers when he wrote out the sequence, as I suspected.

    Once we got the safe open, the locksmith opened up the lock and worked his way thru the actual Exact numbers. After confirming them several times, he disassembled the lock, cleaned and reassembled it, and it now works perfectly - WITH the exact and correct numbers.

    The actual dialing sequence was in fact the same as posted for a N10 Pillards:
    Left 4x to first number (Pass 3 times and stop at 4th)
    Right 3x to the second number (Pass 2x and stop at 3rd)
    Left 2x to the third number (Pass 1x and stop and 2nd)
    Right until the dial stops. (Positive Stop)

    And, also as you all advised, Positive pressure (hard to Locked position) on the Bolt handle is imperative for the bolt drop. (In my case, Top of Bolt handle toward Left, or Non-Hinged side of door)
    Lastly, for anyone else encountering one of these old gems, the dial DOES stop and lock solidly on that last turn to the Right after dialing the combination sequence.

    Thanks to everyone out there for all your help and advice, and hopefully this post can help someone else as well.

    Cheers to All

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    St. Louis (63031), Missouri
    Posts
    70
    Country: United States

    Default We called it "Tobying"

    Quote Originally Posted by Doug MacQueen View Post
    In checking pictures of Pillard locks including the ones posted here, I have noticed that several have had the wheel gate openings filed wider to account for wear. This type of wear results in a misalignment of the gates at the fence and the lock becomes difficult to open. Generally it is the last wheel number that gets the abuse, but it is the first number dialed that shows the most misalignment due to the additive wear of all the wheels. Dealing with this problem is usually solved by slightly passing the number or numbers given.
    Whenever we opened a combination lock and found the gates filed wide we called it "Tobying" in "honor" of the legendary Toby Monday who started the company I worked for.. now formerly Monday Security Corporation here in (metro) St Louis.
    Recently out of commission, Tobe Monday Safe and Lock was bought from Mr. Monday by D.D. Marston in 1968, 48 years after it was started. Don spoke of Toby with great reverence and pride. He often saw and told us about some of ol' Toby's tips and tricks like filing gates, leaving coins instead of shims under stacks of safe deposit boxes, or telling every customer they were next on the schedule, letting them believe they were the next, not next after the previous ten with the same notion. It was a great place to learn what to do and what not to do with all this stuff. Thanks to Toby and Don there were tons of old locks and parts to pilfer and study.
    Learning these kinds of short cuts taught me how not only to open the most mysterious lockouts but how to make them work right for the owner who just paid big to have a restoration. The glow from a new paint job, lettering, pin-striping, interior flocking, buffed out bolt-work and plated hing tips wears off pretty quick when the combination fails. And for some reason telling them to turn a little past the number or jiggle the dial over ten doesn't help much.
    Wear points on old locks like the Pillard's are found mostly in the friction of the friction fences which can be fixed by cleaning, oiling and then peening the inner sleeve ever so carefully to revive the proper friction. The "need" to file gates usually comes from tumbler pack wear which makes the wheels drift when turned quickly or rubbed by the next wheel, and requires careful shimming again to get the correct amount of friction between the wheels and spacers. Spacer shims should go on the post first, and not bent ones that will soon flatten out or cause other wear and make it too loose again.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Colchester, Essex, UK
    Posts
    42
    Country: UK

    Default

    Try dialing it in reverse direction

    Also dialing slow and be accurate on not going past the number otherwise you will have to start from the very beginning

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