Welcome to our world exploring the Historical, Political and Technological aspects of Locks, Keys and Safes

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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Cleveland, Ohio USA
    Posts
    1,433
    Country: United States

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    I know pretty much nothing about painting, but as far as what was used back in the day, there are other areas in which you could check, such as steam engines, early machine tools, etc. On one of the nickel plating jobs I had done, the plating shop did say there was an older type (color wise?) of nickel plating which they could do. Acid etching is something I have been looking into and may try it out this summer with Matt Lamborn, a safe restoration painter. I don't remember the gasket material as being like leather unless it was soaked in something first. Hard to the touch, but not so hard I couldn't dig my fingernail into it. On the varnish, spar varnish would be a possibility.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    25
    Country: United States

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    Thank you for the info. All great help. I will continue with my research in those areas.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    147
    Country: United States

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    You might enjoy these pictures on Mark Frank's wonderful site...

    http://www.my-time-machines.net/diebold_3_movements.htm

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    St. Louis (63031), Missouri
    Posts
    69
    Country: United States

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    Restored one of these once. The seal material is heavy red felt normally. For body work, the filler was water putty. If you go to repaint this thing it has to all come off and be refilled with Bondo. The old stuff will absorb any new finish, and every crack will show, if not immediately, soon. Take no short cuts. The primed wheel carriages make it look funky, so you will have to at least replicate the finish there. The right plater can strip the old off and redo the plating, keeping the etched areas like original. DON'T let them sand or buff it off! Nickel and satin nickel are the best bet, chrome is too automotive. Quick-dry enamel is the closest you will come to original finish. All that artwork is done by hand, find a good pin stripe artist, and use lacquer thinner to take that modern latex off without ruining the original finish... usually. Have fun!


  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    25
    Country: United States

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    Thanks Brian, that is all great information. I am taking notes. I have found a talented pinstripe artist, who has taken tracings and many photos, to replicate all detail exactly. I presume that "dustless" blasting, using glass media and water vapor is as good a way as any to blast this safe clean? (after removing all mechanical and shiny parts, of course).

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    St. Louis (63031), Missouri
    Posts
    69
    Country: United States

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    Re; blasting, dustless is best for the blaster & the environment. It does not mean much for the blastee but $. Make sure the doer is experienced. Like power-washing in the wrong hands can put holes and dents where the were not before.
    Do it before doing service to the hinges and moving parts, then take EVERYTHING apart, clean & lube. There will be wear, old grease, and blast SAND in every possible gap. Lucky with this safe (outer door at least) nothing goes through the door, but pull, clean, & lube all lock spindles & handle arbors. Short cuts only bring regrets.


  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Peteborough England
    Posts
    118
    Country: England

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    Corr, you colonials have some brilliant and interesting safes to play with - even if they do all look like railway trucks from below.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    25
    Country: United States

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    Yes indeed. Being a former colonial myself, when I first saw this safe, I had to have it for it's shear beauty; it is like a fine sculpture and mechanical marvel at the same time. Even before restoration it has pride of place in the living room.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    25
    Country: United States

    Default Progress

    Some of you may be interested in the progress of this project. I took all the moving parts and locking mechanism off and cleaned and polished everything. The body of the safe was then blasted clean, to bare metal. I can just hear all you purists scream, however, the paint was just too far gone. I then filled most imperfections with bondo and primed the whole thing. About 5 coats, wet flatting between each coat. Then the top coat, about three. The color of the base coat looks a bit like primer, but it is actually very close to the original. After some research, I ordered some red felt for the door seals. The safe is now at the artist's studio, awaiting the gold stripes, and all the filigree and original wording. The finished product will be, hopefully, just like the original, 120 years ago. Pictures to follow.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    25
    Country: United States

    Default Some pictures

    Here are some pictures, progress so far.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20160531_123940_1467850930709_resized.jpg   20160601_103327_1467850870303_resized.jpg   20160613_093303_1467850842169_resized.jpg  

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