Vintage Mortise lock with broken deadbolt spring , need help

[Marie]

This is one of the 14 similar mortise locksets in my 1928 house. The face plates are labeled Y52, Y56. Y57 or Y58. All of them have the same broken and or missing hairpin spring, shown below the lockset, which, I assume, is to facilitate the operation of the key and deadbolt mechanism. All of the know latches work fine.I could fabricate a new spring from memory wire or spring wire, but I don't know where the spring is supposed to brace against. Does it wrap around the screw post? If so, what are its ends anchored against. I have carefully opened each lock, and NONE of them have an intact hairpin spring.

Any help out there? thanks.

[Pschiffe]

This is one of the 14 similar mortise locksets in my 1928 house. The face plates are labeled Y52, Y56. Y57 or Y58. All of them have the same broken and or missing hairpin spring, shown below the lockset, which, I assume, is to facilitate the operation of the key and deadbolt mechanism. All of the know latches work fine.I could fabricate a new spring from memory wire or spring wire, but I don't know where the spring is supposed to brace against. Does it wrap around the screw post? If so, what are its ends anchored against. I have carefully opened each lock, and NONE of them have an intact hairpin spring.

Any help out there? thanks.

Image is too small to see clearly, can you make it larger? Any manufacturer name or logo on the lock case or cover?

Pete Schifferli

[billdeserthills]

My guess is that it fits underneath the horse-shoe part that retracts the latch and is likely there to give the knob some additional turning strength, in order to make it turn back, after you open the door.
I think if you lift that horse-shoe piece off, and pull out the latch, you'll prolly see a stop for that spring that is molded into the case, the other end goes to retract the metal piece. ?Take a look, you will likely find a mark where theat spring has been rubbing.

[Marie]

Image is too small to see clearly, can you make it larger? Any manufacturer name or logo on the lock case or cover?

Here are some larger image files.
The only label or branding is the Y52 ( or Y56, Y57, Y58) that is stamped on the faceplate.
Could the hairpin spring be only a keeper to hold the two moving sections of the deadbolt in place? I would like to get the deadbolt mechanisms working, particularly the thumbturn controlled ones for the bath rooms.

[Pschiffe]

Here are some larger image files.

That's much better. The thumbnail is from page 237 from Yale Catalog No. 26 (c)1929 showing various arrangements of the "tumbler spring". Although none of these is exactly like your lock, I believe you can see that the spring applies downward pressure on the lever tumbler. This keeps the bolt retracted, or; when the key or thumbturn is rotated, deadlocked in the extended position. Hope this helps.

Pete Schifferli

[Marie]

I think that I understand how it works now. I have drawn in the red line that is where the flat spring should be. I will make new ones from spring wire with a wrap of wire over the post. It should make the door knob rotate back when unlatched and provide some resistance to the deadbolt mechanism.

Thank you for your help.

[Pschiffe]

I have drawn in the red line that is where the flat spring should be. I will make new ones from spring wire with a wrap of wire over the post. It should make the door knob rotate back when unlatched and provide some resistance to the deadbolt mechanism.
Thank you for your help.

Yup, looks right, you are most welcome.

Pete Schifferli

[sdc585]

I'm located in Rochester, NY. Not too far from Tonawanda. My home was built in 1935 and all of my doors have the same mortise sets as the original posters. I've attached a picture of one of my locks with the leaf spring intact and in position. I hope this helps future folks searching for an answer.

As an aside, I took this to a local locksmith shop to see about getting replacement leaf springs made. The locksmith insisted that my locks were reproductions and would not believe me that they are original to the house. He based that on the fact the housing was black painted steel and not all the internal components were cast iron. He told me reproductions used "white metal" and originals would have all been cast. I knew he was flat out wrong. I'm only the second owner of this house and everything is original to the house. Seeing the original posters images confirmed they are original. Now of course, it may have a reproduction produced in the 1930's . . . .

[Pschiffe]

As an aside, I took this to a local locksmith shop to see about getting replacement leaf springs made. The locksmith insisted that my locks were reproductions and would not believe me that they are original to the house. He based that on the fact the housing was black painted steel and not all the internal components were cast iron. He told me reproductions used "white metal" and originals would have all been cast. I knew he was flat out wrong. I'm only the second owner of this house and everything is original to the house. Seeing the original posters images confirmed they are original. Now of course, it may have a reproduction produced in the 1930's . . . .

I don't doubt what you say about the authenticity of your locks, but; your locksmith has a point. It is highly unusual to encounter a mortise lock of that vintage with a wrought steel case rather than cast iron. Although steel is commonly used today, cast iron was the norm in that era. My two cents.

Pete Schifferli