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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
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    Default Advice on vault construction

    Do we have an expert on the site, please?

  2. #2
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    Nov 2005
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    Seattle WA
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    Welcome aboard!

    What are the questions? I might not be a vault tech but if they see the questions they might answer.

  3. #3
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    I know the recommended minimum thickness of wall required in terms of concrete. I am going to use some steel plate. Is there a formula for the trade off between concrete and steel? At one point I shall have to pour concrete against existing low quality brickwork. The concrete will crack the brickwork over time. So I need to insert a barrier. Would polythene be adequate? How should I treat the steel plate? Is paint enough? When I have attached the steel to the wall I shall weld all the plates together so that would damage the paint. I can't do anything about that on the back side?

    I am sure others will occur to me.

  4. #4
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    Metal should be covered like a door frame with a sealer in several coats that are poured in with concrete. That is the only question I know I can answer of these.

  5. #5
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    Default Pouring around the doorframe

    I know some manufacturers advise very adamantly against pouring around a door frame. They advise building the doorway and then using the grip attachments on the door frame to grip it into the prepared wall. Why is this? I would have thought that a pour would give an excellent bond. Is it simply in case you ever want to remove the frame at a later stage? Is it to ensure there is no actual structural load on the door frame?

  6. #6
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    There is a difference when I say poured in door frame and what your are saying. The wall is made then the door frame is placed after being treated on the inside. Then they pour a grout or concrete into the area between the frame and wall. If done properly there is a steel header plate above the door frame to take the load. I never like filling a door frame as it removes the best way to get wires around a door frame.

  7. #7
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    I have seen that done. I suppose anything to beef up the area where the wall meets the door has got to be good news.

    The design work is coming along nicely. Once I have the walls up to standard the weakest spot will be the door.

  8. #8
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    Sep 2004
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    Devon UK
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    I think that the obligatory vibration of the concrete is often going to distort the frame so that the two sides bow inwards -after which it is a LOT of work to get the door to shut.
    Older, better safes had the reinforcing welded to the frame and built the frame to take the construction loads and I would suggest , were more secure.

  9. #9
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    I think I will get the door bricked in as tightly as I can. Then fill the inevitable slight void with some grout, possibly with some PVA in the mix, and call it a day!

  10. #10
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    I think what he is suggesting is a frame around the safe to take the structure load then fill the gap between.

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