Welcome to our world exploring the Historical, Political and Technological aspects of Locks, Keys and Safes

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  1. #11
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    According to my notes, Diebold & Kienzle dates back to 1870. I'm not sure when the partnership ended but it was no later than around 1876 or so.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by wylk View Post
    According to my notes, Diebold & Kienzle dates back to 1870. I'm not sure when the partnership ended but it was no later than around 1876 or so.
    thats pretty cool. so my next question. is it worth anything considering the missing handle and no combination?

  3. #13
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    S13envy, fascinating thread and following with interest, we would all love to see any further photos so do post here so that we can all see them.

    Rog, probably you are using an older browser or Internet Explorer. Use Firefox and you will never have problems. Both Antique-locks.com and Firefox adhere strictly to www conventions, many browsers do not!

  4. #14
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    Apr 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Morland View Post
    S13envy, fascinating thread and following with interest, we would all love to see any further photos so do post here so that we can all see them.

    Rog, probably you are using an older browser or Internet Explorer. Use Firefox and you will never have problems. Both Antique-locks.com and Firefox adhere strictly to www conventions, many browsers do not!
    I will try and get more detailed pics soon and will definitely post them.

  5. #15
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    Mar 2009
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    Default safe weight

    Hello, Just wanted to give you my idea of your safes weight. I think you will find that it is much closer to 2,000 pounds. There is a back cover on the right hand door blocking access to the lock. The issue really is that there is approx. 2" of fire brick attached to it, making removal quite hard. Take a steel punch and small 3 pound sledge hammer and try to push the middle bolt back into the door. The lock just might be unlocked, or broken off completely. Don't "attack" the thing, but give it a good hit, if the bolt moves, keep striking it until it has moved in 1 1/2 inches. I'll try to find photos of your safe bolt work and post them. Good luck, and keep us posted.

  6. #16
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    Apr 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yankee View Post
    Hello, Just wanted to give you my idea of your safes weight. I think you will find that it is much closer to 2,000 pounds. There is a back cover on the right hand door blocking access to the lock. The issue really is that there is approx. 2" of fire brick attached to it, making removal quite hard. Take a steel punch and small 3 pound sledge hammer and try to push the middle bolt back into the door. The lock just might be unlocked, or broken off completely. Don't "attack" the thing, but give it a good hit, if the bolt moves, keep striking it until it has moved in 1 1/2 inches. I'll try to find photos of your safe bolt work and post them. Good luck, and keep us posted.
    you talking about this? sorry, im not up to par on my safe terminology.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Morland View Post
    S13envy, fascinating thread and following with interest, we would all love to see any further photos so do post here so that we can all see them.

    Rog, probably you are using an older browser or Internet Explorer. Use Firefox and you will never have problems. Both Antique-locks.com and Firefox adhere strictly to www conventions, many browsers do not!
    Thanks -
    I just checked and I'm using IE version 11.0.9600.16521
    which shows as the most recent update
    don' have this issue on other forums...

  8. #18
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    Apr 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yankee View Post
    Hello, Just wanted to give you my idea of your safes weight. I think you will find that it is much closer to 2,000 pounds. There is a back cover on the right hand door blocking access to the lock. The issue really is that there is approx. 2" of fire brick attached to it, making removal quite hard. Take a steel punch and small 3 pound sledge hammer and try to push the middle bolt back into the door. The lock just might be unlocked, or broken off completely. Don't "attack" the thing, but give it a good hit, if the bolt moves, keep striking it until it has moved in 1 1/2 inches. I'll try to find photos of your safe bolt work and post them. Good luck, and keep us posted.
    nevermind. you're probably talking about this bolts that slide into the outer edge of the safe that actually lock the doors shut right? guess it wouldn't make any sense to hit the broked handle.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by s13envy View Post
    nevermind. you're probably talking about this bolts that slide into the outer edge of the safe that actually lock the doors shut right? guess it wouldn't make any sense to hit the broked handle.
    Correct. It might be possible that the lock is unlocked but that the bolts have moved enough to keep the door from opening. In that case, some firm persuasion on the ones that interlock with the other door, which should be entirely exposed on the left side of the locked door, might get them all to retract again. On the other hand I believe it's possible to fully lock the right-hand door with the left-hand door open, i.e. operator error. But it's worth a try.

    While there may not be much room to work with, it might also be possible to get at the lock's back via the open door and work from there, but it wasn't designed that way of course. Good light, a mirror, possibly a camera that can take photos very close up, would be helpful.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by wylk View Post
    Correct. It might be possible that the lock is unlocked but that the bolts have moved enough to keep the door from opening. In that case, some firm persuasion on the ones that interlock with the other door, which should be entirely exposed on the left side of the locked door, might get them all to retract again. On the other hand I believe it's possible to fully lock the right-hand door with the left-hand door open, i.e. operator error. But it's worth a try.

    While there may not be much room to work with, it might also be possible to get at the lock's back via the open door and work from there, but it wasn't designed that way of course. Good light, a mirror, possibly a camera that can take photos very close up, would be helpful.
    I will definitely try hitting the bolts back in first. Ive got a good solid lead punch I can use to keep from damaging anything. If that doesn't work ill see what I can get to from the back side.

    I appreciate all the help with this so far but id also really love to get an idea of what the safe itself could be worth. Current condition vs restored. I like the idea of getting the safe restored but no idea if it's worth it or not.

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