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Thread: Milner Safe

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    4
    Country: England

    Default Milner Safe

    Hi, I am new to this forum and have joined because I have just purchased a Milner Safe. After a quick research of the safe I have the following information;
    The number stamped on the front, above the door, of the safe is K684 and the same is stamped on the Key but with a 'I' at the top.
    There are two drawers inside one with a key the other without, how could I get a key?
    If anybody could help that would be start.
    Many thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,754
    Country: Wales

    Default

    Hi Ali- there is no link between the numbers stamped on the safe and the actual keys- if you want a key for the other drawer, the lock will have to be removed from it, and new keys cut to the actual lock. If you do a quick search you'll find there are plenty of posts ref Milners, removing locks and drawers etc.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Aberdeenshire
    Posts
    697
    Country: Great Britain

    Default Your Milner.

    Your safe was made in the first months of 1899.

    The drawer lock should slip up and out so you can take it to your local lock shop for a key to be cut.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    4
    Country: England

    Default Thanks

    Safeman and Maxvaultage, your comments were very useful. We have taken out the lock from the drawer and will now search out a lock smith to create a new key.
    Ali

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    4
    Country: England

    Default Door removal

    We are off to locksmith today! I have decided to take the door off for ease of moving the safe, I have seen large countersunk screws/bolts at the corners of the door at the hinge but I'm not sure if removing these would help. Is there a sequence to go through to remove the door?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Aberdeenshire
    Posts
    697
    Country: Great Britain

    Default Removing door of Milner.

    Assuming that this model is fitted with normal carriages and centres, you should just loosen (use a flat ended chisel such as a foals-foot to start it) and unscrew the top one. The door will then lift out of the lower carriage.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    4
    Country: England

    Default Door removal

    I have exposed the screw/bolt head at the corner of the door and tried to turn but no luck. I am going to try an impact driver. I'm still unsure weather or not this will actually help me remove the door (help). How does removing this screw release the pin?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Aberdeenshire
    Posts
    697
    Country: Great Britain

    Default Removing top pivot.

    Again, assuming this to be a normal Milner safe, the top pivot is fixed to the door plate by 3 countersunk screws at points illustrated.

    The bottom one is just showing. From memory there is not a locating pin, only the screws.

    To start a screw, the small flat headed punch (5mm approx.) is engaged with the edge of the slot of the screw at the outermost point of the countersink at an angle of 45 degrees pointing anti-clockwise. Only a heavy hammer will convince the screw to shift.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Top pivot.JPG  

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Aberdeenshire
    Posts
    697
    Country: Great Britain

    Default An apology Ali.

    Quote Originally Posted by safeman View Post
    Again, assuming this to be a normal Milner safe, the top pivot is fixed to the door plate by 3 countersunk screws at points illustrated.

    The bottom one is just showing. From memory there is not a locating pin, only the screws.

    To start a screw, the small flat headed punch (5mm approx.) is engaged with the edge of the slot of the screw at the outermost point of the countersink at an angle of 45 degrees pointing anti-clockwise. Only a heavy hammer will convince the screw to shift.
    I apologise for having mislead you into thinking that there was only one screw holding the top hinge. Must read more carefully in future.

    A couple more tips for you. If you are tackling this single-handedly, support the door at it's bottom corner to keep any pressure off the screws as they are being undone.

    Secondly, when you have located the screw positions by tapping away the paint and putty, and before trying to loosen them, clear out the slots of the screws with the corner of a large screwdriver and hammer.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Cyberspace
    Posts
    1,318
    Country: Australia

    Default

    Just my opinion, for the size & weight of the safe removing the door is simply not worth the trouble you may have getting it off, putting it back and getting everything lined up .........

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