Master No.19

[BBE]

Gsus really? They sold so many of them? I didn't know that !
Do you have any idea how much it did cost back in 2000? Would be interesting to know!

Thank you very much for the info on the key and the plug
I would love to have a second one this way I could take one apart. I would never take this one apart though it is very special to me!

Mine looks more like being from the 80s. Is there any way on how to tell whether how old it could be? Most of the No.19 padlocks I have seen so far had a blue bumper and looked newer than the one that I have.

Thanks again!

I was always technical information and designing key systems and as such made a point of not knowing prices. I would guess $20-$25, but that is just a guess. There is unlikely to be any difference between the first one produced in 1976 and the last one produced in 2000 as the die wouldn't have worn enough to need to be replaced.
BBE.

[jeffmoss26]

The hardware store still has a handful of M14/1092J blanks for those padlocks. I used one to fit a Brooks padlock.

[Doug MacQueen]

Adrian , go for it. I have a 200 year old really nice English key that I will eventually cut open just to verify that it was probably lost wax cast as opposed to sand cast and chiseled. I will find and send you a 19 Master padlock. Doug

[Adrian Weber]

That sounds like a great plan thanks Doug!

Sometimes you have to destroy things for a science or a noble cause... In my case I have a person who is a master mechanist with the right tools to remove rivet heads very gentle and smoothly.

[BBE]

That sounds like a great plan thanks Doug!

Sometimes you have to destroy things for a science or a noble cause... In my case I have a person who is a master mechanist with the right tools to remove rivet heads very gentle and smoothly.

The best way to remove rivits on a Master Lock is to drill straight down the rivits with a bit that is smaller than the rivit. That will weaken them so that prying of the plates will collapse the rivit to make disassembly easier.
BBE.

[Adrian Weber]

Hey BBE

as mentioned before I have a master machinist friend doing that for me. He is using a Hurco Ultimax milling machine but also has a few older milling machines. One of the older ones was used to machine away the rivet heads on the attached picture. We then used a special punching tool for punching them in a little so that we could remove the first cover plate. He also machined the rivet heads on the Master Magnum.

[BBE]

Hey BBE

as mentioned before I have a master machinist friend doing that for me. He is using a Hurco Ultimax milling machine but also has a few older milling machines. One of the older ones was used to machine away the rivet heads on the attached picture. We then used a special punching tool for punching them in a little so that we could remove the first cover plate. He also machined the rivet heads on the Master Magnum.

If you don't mind leaving those round milling marks on the bottom plate, that method will work too. The method I pointed out does not damage any of the plates and would prevent deforming any of them during disassembly. In fact, it could be reassembled like new if you find rivits.
BBE.

[Adrian Weber]

Thanks for the advise BBE I will keep it in mind :)

I was finally able to finish my video on it:



At this very moment my file size is too large to upload this video here on the server but I am working on that problem!

[Donnie]

This guy has had these lock's listed on ebay, for MONTH'S...I don't know how many he has sold though.............???????????????

[Retro00064]

This guy has had these lock's listed on ebay, for MONTH'S...I don't know how many he has sold though.............???????????????

I looked through that guy's feedback and it appears he may have only sold two: one in Sep./Oct. 2012 and one in Dec. 2012, each one for $75 (which is the lowest price I recall seeing him ask for a #19).

Hey Adrian,

Thanks for the drainage system patent. I never knew that Master started making locks with such a feature before, and learned something new from this thread! I looked at some of my locks and it seems that other Master padlocks were made with the drainage system too: my circa 1960s Master "Super Security" #81 (their first padlock to have a 5 pin cylinder, I believe; any knowledge of what year that one was introduced, BBE? :-), a circa 1980s #15 (of a similar vintage to your #19), and some other standard pin tumbler models from the 1970s to the 1990s have a small hole at the bottom of the receptacle for the shackle toe in the lock bodies (clogged up with dirt in the more heavily weathered ones), which may be a drain hole, while some 1990s #5 padlocks of mine have a huge hole.

Circa 1980s is a good estimate of the age of your lock. The #19 originally had the outline of the old Master plaque logo stamped into the bottom of the lock, framing the key number. This was removed at some point (and your lock doesn't have it), and eventually the early Master bumper design was replaced with the newer blue bumper design. Same goes for the #15. I don't know exactly when the bumper design change occurred, but BBE said in another thread that the smaller pin tumbler models (nos. 1, 3, 5, etc.) first got their bumpers in 1987, and those bumpers were apparently the newer blue ones (albeit in a slightly different variation at first, it appears), so the models that already had bumpers of the earlier design may have switched to the newer bumper design around that time.

Zachary.