Cant open very old york huge safe

[Dean Nickel]

Yes welcome to the fourm!

While I am not a safe tech most of the time, just light service work in that part of the craft, I will have to go with Doug on this topic. Our safe tech for the company I work for can make it so you can't see the point of entry if the customer wants the repair done by us. Takes a bit of care but if done correctly will blend in even on close inspection. That is why we are getting the job is because we are the profesionals and we should leave the container in as good if not better condtion than we find it if we are asked to open and repair.

While I agree it is prefered to try manipulation to see if there is good contact points it is not always an option. As was pointed out old grease can be a problem and can take that option away.

[Brian Smith]

Doug and Halflock, Thanks to both of you for the warm welcome. I have always enjoyed a hearty debate on any subject regarding any aspect of the subject of safes, vaults, locks, keys, and pretty much anything else. I hoped to make it clear that manipulation is simply my preference. I did not specify much why, mostly in an effort to stay on subject. Honestly, I have nothing against drilling. I have done it so much that I have designed and made my own drill rig which is nearly worn out. My primary love for manipulation is the satisfaction of knowing once I am in, the job is done. There is no repair to be done except to correct whatever mechanism may have been the cause, no heavy lifting, no painting, no whining about how the paint may not match, no lingering doubt in the mind and on the tongue of the compartment owner regarding the future security of its' contents. Truth be told, drilling is the fastest way to make entry and I have written my own programs to facilitate the dialing process which helps me keep focused and find the drop point faster. I truly enjoy the chance to use a borescope and only wish they were more reliable. I also find great satisfaction in taking a torch to the back of a safe, and skipping caution all together. I maintain however, if I am going for a clean and easy job, when time is NOT of the essence, nothing is better, especially when the combination sheet is right there in my hand. Thanks again for your comments. I appreciate the opportunity to talk the issues more than anything.

[Doug MacQueen]

Hey, I hear where you are coming from as manipulation has always been my first choice too. But ever since a collector had me X-ray a safe because I failed to manipulate it and he didn't want it drilled, I get touchy with anti-drill people. Don't get me wrong, X-raying was an interesting experience but it generally isn't feasible in the day to day work. Another example of the NO drill attitude was found in Tombstone AZ. There is a big Corliss cannonball sitting outside the Courthouse there with no dials on it. I told them I would drill the thing open, for free as I was researching the Corliss safes on a cross country trip. They said if I wanted to open it, I would have to supply the dial and manipulate the lock (S&G No. 2-1/2 Automatic 4 wheel manipulation resistant), because the safe was an historical artifact and it couldn't be damaged. A big cast iron ball sitting outside with no dials, no paint and few would even recognize it as even being a safe and they didn't want it damaged. Idiots.

[beckville]

A good friend of mine recently purchased an old bank built in 1908. There is a York co. Vault door that is open but locked. We've taken the back off the combination dial and it seems like all for numbers are the set the same. By looking at these pictures can anyone tell us what the numbers are actually Set at and how to unlock it. Maybe even tell me if we can reset the lock with our own numbers thanks for taking the time to read this and I hope there is someone out there who can help instead of telling us to contact a professional. Thanks

[wylk]

It looks like the one visible wheel is set at 50. One common factory combination is simply 50, and this is sometimes used when a lock is being taken out of service. In the case of a 4-wheel lock, turn right several turns and stop at 50; then turn left until the dial stops at which point the lock should be unlocked. Details of the dialing sequence might be different for older locks.

Certainly the combination can be changed but let's concentrate on getting it working first!

[wylk]

I might have mis-spoken regarding the simple 50 combination, if it doesn't work then try it the other way around. That is, left several turns to 50, then right to open.

[Brian Smith]

Mr. Wylk was right the first time, unless the photo was taken in a mirror.
This lock is super simple.
If it does not open on 50, try 51, and back; 49, and back; and so on, continuing that process until the fence lever drops.
Once you know how the settings relate to the actual dialing, you will know (if any deviation from the setting occurs) whether the dial ring, or the driver is the cause.
To reset the combination, pop the center ring of each wheel out, align the index mark with another number.
There are some other details to be careful about, so be careful to document every change you make.
Keep it clean and be light on the lube.