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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Frankfurt Main
    Posts
    705
    Country: Germany

    Default Old Junkunc Bros. American Lock Co. padlock

    I just got an old Junkunc Bros. padlock which I like very much. I only found a few pictures and one video on a padlock like this. I already started cleaning it and with cleaning I just mean removing old dirt and grease. I will leave them like they are and not polish anything! (Would never do that). This might be one of the first mass produced padlocks with ball bearing locking mechanism or am I'm wrong with that guess?

    I would like to know how old this padlock might be, the locking mechanism is very interesting (ball bearings with craters in shackle like on my Anchor Las) seems to be a wafer if I am not wrong. There is also a number stamped in at the top. Does anyone know what it means?

    Las thing would be the screw on the opening side of the shackle, any idea what this might be for? Can you maybe disassemble the padlock? I do not want to break anything therefore I am careful on this one.

    Thanks for your help!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 001.Old Junkunc Padlock.JPG   001.Old Junkunc Padlock (2).JPG   001.Old Junkunc Padlock (3).JPG   001.Old Junkunc Padlock (4).JPG   001.Old Junkunc Padlock (5).JPG  

    001.Old Junkunc Padlock (6).JPG   001.Old Junkunc Padlock (7).JPG  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Frankfurt Main
    Posts
    705
    Country: Germany

    Default

    Riyame from keypicking.com already helped me on this one. He uploaded a pdf file from the locksmith ledger with explanation. The padlock is old but not as old as I thought.

    So I was wrong with that part :)

    But here is the pdf. Still a very interesting padlock for me and one of my old favourites now!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Frankfurt Main
    Posts
    705
    Country: Germany

    Default

    Sorry I was not able to upload the pdf file :(
    It is from the locksmith ledger 1970 I think the padlock handbook.
    Detailed description with explosion picture.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Frankfurt Main
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    Country: Germany

    Default

    Disassembled now here are the pictures. I will clean it within the next days then.

    :)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 002.Old Junkunc Padlock.JPG   002.Old Junkunc Padlock (2).JPG   002.Old Junkunc Padlock (3).JPG   002.Old Junkunc Padlock (4).JPG   002.Old Junkunc Padlock (5).JPG  

    002.Old Junkunc Padlock (6).JPG  

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Canada
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    102
    Country: Canada

    Default

    Glad I could help. The information is from "The Padlock Handbook" published by the locksmith ledger. Mine is the 1967 version.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Seattle WA
    Posts
    1,327
    Country: United States

    Default

    Well from the look of the lock it had to be made after 1926 as this was when several of the components of the design was patented. But as you can see the body shape is different. If I was to guess it was made in the 1950-60s. As you have already figured this is a serviceable padlock. BBE will know more I am sure.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by Dean Nickel; 29-11-12 at 03:25 AM.

  7. #7

    Default

    You are probably close on the date., could be a old as the 1940's as that body syle was probably made to save brass and there was a lot of that going on during the WWII years.
    BBE.

    Quote Originally Posted by Halflock View Post
    Well from the look of the lock it had to be made after 1926 as this was when several of the components of the design was patented. But as you can see the body shape is different. If I was to guess it was made in the 1950-60s. As you have already figured this is a serviceable padlock. BBE will know more I am sure.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Frankfurt Main
    Posts
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    Country: Germany

    Default

    Okay here are the last pictures after cleaning everything up now. The wafers are clean now and I also cleaned the core of them and the spring + body a second time. I have already taken the core back together and will reassemble the padlock soon (After putting some new synthetic grease on oil on it). After taking another look at the Actuator I think Alex was right you can probably manipulate it with a bypass tool but no one will try it on this one :)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 004.Junkunc padlock restored.JPG   004.Junkunc padlock restored (2).JPG   004.Junkunc padlock restored (3).JPG   004.Junkunc padlock restored (4).JPG   004.Junkunc padlock restored (5).JPG  


  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dicey View Post
    Okay here are the last pictures after cleaning everything up now. The wafers are clean now and I also cleaned the core of them and the spring + body a second time. I have already taken the core back together and will reassemble the padlock soon (After putting some new synthetic grease on oil on it). After taking another look at the Actuator I think Alex was right you can probably manipulate it with a bypass tool but no one will try it on this one :)
    That 'blade' tumbler cylinder, (that's what they call it in the factory), was invented and patented in 1926. You can see it at patent number 1,607,758. That patent also shows the shape of the current H10 model. It is interesting that your lock had two tumbler springs as current product only has one. Were the springs both inserted with the coil end first? If so, maybe it was a mistake during assembly.

    If you examine that cylinder carefully you can note that it is actually an assembly of three components. The plug is made in two halves and the cap is swadged in place to make the assembly permanent.
    BBE.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Frankfurt Main
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    705
    Country: Germany

    Default

    Very cool thanks for the info guys!

    Oh the wafers... I originally meant it the other way around and got mixed up with the translation sorry.. So the low cuts on the wafers should be the cuts for the high cuts on the key and also the other way around. If I am correct.

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