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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    ohio
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    115
    Country: United States

    Default Silver Diebold restored...well...almost done that is.

    I have to do the 23KT gold leaf striping around the outer edge of the body on the face and also around the oil painting. Look inside the lock...i know i havent seen much but i have never seen the small brass piece inside...bet Doug has. This safe is 32.5 inches tall and 23 wide and 22 deep and is forsale when it is finished. Itis from approx late 1870's...lock number is 38247.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SilverDieboldLockEmpty.jpg   DieboldCornerCloseTop.jpg   SilverDieboldOpenBoxClosed.jpg   SilverDieboldFaceClosed.jpg   SilverDieboldLockFull.jpg  


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    ohio
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    115
    Country: United States

    Default Finished....

    Safe is done and complete with 23KT gold leaf striping. Hope you enjoy the (many) picts.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SilverDiebodFaceClosedwGold.jpg   SilverDieboldCornerClosedwGold.jpg   SilverDieboldLockOpen.jpg   SilverDieboldLockClosed.jpg   SilverDieboldOpenCornerwGold.jpg  


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Mid Michigan
    Posts
    139
    Country: United States

    Default

    WOW! -JTDSFW - (Just too darn sexy for words!), Thanks for posting those.........
    Bill

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Seattle WA
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    Default

    I just have to ask. How much do you charge for a job like that?

    Yes that is a NICE safe! Much better than one can get today in looks.

    Pitty that any fire material is long gone.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Cleveland, Ohio USA
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    1,433
    Country: United States

    Default

    Dean, I am going to come down on you and come down on you hard, but don't take it personally. I just cooked some fish, pan fried. When I turned on the fire fairly low, how long do you think I could hold my hands in the flames? A second maybe? When I put the iron skillet on the flames, how long could I put my hand on the skillet? Definitely longer than a second or two. So even solid metal is an insulator. At least for a while. We know from experience aluminum transfers heat faster than iron. It is always a matter of time. Now the Diebold safe contains an insulator that is far superior to iron. Regardless of whether it is concrete, alum, plaster of paris, asbestos, whatever it is, it is an insulator. Even if it is of the type that would generate steam when exposed to high temps and is no longer capable of creating that steam, it is still an insulator. How good? Who knows! Surely not as good as when new but to claim that it is no longer capable of insulating in a fire is just not true. Okay I'm done. Just the facts m'am.

    ---------- Post added at 06:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:24 PM ----------

    Sorry about the rant Dean, but if I hear that old wives tale about older fire safes one more time I'll... Matt, that part is to hold the fence /lever up while resetting the comb. Otherwise the lever nose falls into the driver and prevents dial rotation in the one direction. It wouldn't be needed if the changing position was offset but Diebold liked "O" locks. Doug

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Mid Michigan
    Posts
    139
    Country: United States

    Default

    Matt,
    If you happen to shoot Dean an email on the cost for a job like that, instead of posting it, I would love to be cc'd in on that. Thanks....
    Bill

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Seattle WA
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    1,327
    Country: United States

    Default

    Doug I take no offence. I have too much respect for you to not take what you say.

    It is a heat stop of sorts. But it is NOT as good as it use to be. There has been tests done on fire safes as we both know. In talking to the ones that do them for Amsec, say that the rating of the fire fill of a safe made before 1998 has a half life of about 12 years. Now it will still protect for a short while depending on age but not at a high heat fire as it once might have. Any protection is better than nothing I will agree. But expecting a fire safe made more than 40 years ago to protect as it was when made can't be expected and more than likely result in crispy documents. Amsec has tested some of their older safes to see how long they do protect and this is the reason for the new fire fill that will not expire as the older ones will do in time. Now I agree that UL is not the end all of info or tests but it is like old fire safes better than nothing.

    The only ones better on testing are the Germans.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Cleveland, Ohio USA
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    Dean, I am glad to see that your knowledge about fire safe degradation is greater than your original statement led me to believe. That degradation occurs at all is dependent on the type of insulation used. To my knowledge, the plaster board used in many gun safes made today does not degrade at all because it does not rely on steam. The vast majority of standard fire safes have relied on steam generation going back into the 1800's. UL testing is very specific but does not test for maximum limits, time or temps. Correct? The Diebold safe posted here was designed not for home use but for commercial. It is a heavy wall, meaning it has a thick insulating barrier, equivalent when new, to a later 2 or even 4 Hr fire safe. It was pre UL and we don't know what its original, when new, time and temp limits that it could handle other than the real world big city fires that helped make it a very popular model. I have little doubt that 100 year old Diebold would surpass the capabilities of 95% of the "insulated" fire rated gun safes made today. True, that's not apples to apples but I feel it it unfair to the public to convince them that old fire safes won't do ANY fire protection job but somehow a new gun safe will.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    ohio
    Posts
    115
    Country: United States

    Default

    Doug...you're killin' me....i have no idea what you just said about what that brass peice is or does...haha. the combination and everything works...do i need to be concerned about the lock sticking or something?!??? lol. Hopefuly see you soon. a friend of mine got a "newer" safe and wants to now whats in it....next time you are here...can you open it up? No hurry...he just figures another original copy of the Declaration of Independence is inside...noooo...just kidding....whenever you get a chance. Take care. :O)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Cleveland, Ohio USA
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    Matt, take that lock apart and leave the comb wheels out. Put the dial and drive cam wheel back on with the spline key. Rotate the dial left and then right. When going left the lever drops into the driver and is pushed back up. But going to the right the driver to lever engagement soon stops dial rotation at full bolt retraction. When the lever nose drops into drive cam, note the tip of the fence drops down and rests on the part in question. We'll call that part the "fence/lever retainer" for lack of a better name since that is its job. If you had the proper change key you could insert it into the little hub which is pressing against the spring leg of the retainer and rotate it 1/4 turn right. This allows the retainer to bend upward which in turn holds the fence tip up. And when you rotate the dial left and right the lever nose does not drop down into the driver, allowing the dial to rotate to the left as before but more importantly to the right without being stopped by the bolt lever. At this this point you have isolated one of three functions of the change key as it does its job. The other two functions are 1. , to stake the outer wheel portions immovable as the key is inserted into the lock and 2., to release the inner wheel sections from their outer sections as the change key is turned that 1/4 turn we already made. Clear as mud huh?

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