WTB: lock and key for Victor safe small door, hinge acorns

[dpappen]

Newbie here. Recently purchased one of my lifelong dreams, a Victor floor safe in nice condition.
I grew up with one of these in the house but my parents never shared the combination. I remember spending hours and hours trying to "listen" for the combination and crack open their safe, but no success.
My new safe is missing a lock mechanism and key for the small (4.5X4.5in) interior door and the hinge acorns.
From my research I think the Louisiana Exhibition seal on the door indicates the safe was built sometime around 1905-1915. I have attached photos of the safe, interior door in question and a scale "rubbing" of the door. Any parts or leads is greatly appreciated!

[Dean Nickel]

There is one detail someone would need to help you. What is the distance from the door edge to the side of the box that the bolt of the lock would throw. So measure on the inside of the box from where the door edge would be to the side of the box on the side where the lock would be. This will tell us what the bolt length would be or can be when the bolt extends.

[dpappen]

I think I understand what you are asking for.
1) the gap between the door and the box edge when closed is small, approx 1/32 in or 1mm.
2)The bolt tucks behind a 1/8 in. stop on the inside of the box.
3)Immediately behind that stop is a shallow detente in the sheet metal measuring 5/16" by 15/16" and only 1/32" deep.
4) the paint on the inside of the door indicates the lock is approx 1 1/4 x 1 1/2 inches and the lock body sits approx 5/16" back from the door edge.
I am hoping that these measurements will lead to an original lock which can mount simply into the three threaded holes in the door.

[NatSafeMatt]

Dpappen...congrats on your find...here are a couple picts of some acorn finials that a good friend of mine made. The picture with the quarter in it is for size refference. The finial on the left is an orig. and the finial next to it is one of the ones he made. I sent an orig. of each to him and he made these no problem. So far he has made three diff. sizes and shapes all from a solid brass bar, all beautiful. He is a retired metal research guy from Timken. He has built race motors and can make just about anything...he is a very sharp thinker. Anyhow...you may want to try a local machinist and ask him about making some for you. The threading on the finials was "un-defineable" so he just made them as a you see in the pict. We wrapped the "would-be" threaded area with electrical tape and simply screwed them in...no problem. I am going to have him make two more sets out of solid aluminum for some safes I am curently working on. Sometimes you can find acorn finials for safes on E-Bay...though rare and hard to get correct size. Best of luck.

Matt

[Dean Nickel]

Those look great. On the threading, you can figure it out by counting the threads per inch and size of the shaft. It might be a special size and pitch used by that maker.
Screw thread - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

[Pschiffe]

Those look great. On the threading, you can figure it out by counting the threads per inch and size of the shaft. It might be a special size and pitch used by that maker.
Screw thread - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

There are sets of screw gauges called Thread Detective that can be used to identify common threads. Available for Metric (red) and SAE (black) threads, I have both. Sold by Rockler Woodworking and others.

Pete

[Dean Nickel]

While that is a neat item and I will log that away for use later. The OEM of safes would use a thread that wasn't common to make sure you came back to them for the parts. Like Henry Ford said " I will give them the car if they will buy the parts from me."

[NatSafeMatt]

I heard a story about an electrician who had to go to a ford plant and fix a generator that Mr. Ford and his men could not figure out and fix themselves...He charged an extremely large amount of money for a 20 minute job and a couple dollar part. Mr. Ford complained to him about the size of the bill and he replied..."the cost isn't for the part...it's for the knowledge of knowing what part to change". LOL
My friend that made the finials for me is going to make some more for a couiple other safes I'm doing. These will be made from aluminum which we will then polish. I asked him that some people may be interested in ordering some and ha said he wouldn't mind making/selling more. So....if anyone might be interested, I'll hook you up. I have no idea what he would charge...all mine have been on the buddy system... I used to drive a race car for him a few years back and consider him a good friend. I'm sure he can thread them if you would so desire...but you'd be looking at more cost.
I honestly don't think they would need to be...mine are staying put quite well.

[lafortts]

I have the same safe. Do you happen to know how much yours weighs?

[NatSafeMatt]

I have the same safe. Do you happen to know how much yours weighs?

My National or Dpappen's Victor? Nat. wheighs approx 3000lbs (Says the towing/crane guys that delivered it). It is 48tall and about 36 deep and wide. If you have a National safe...I would love to see pictures of it. Thanks.
Matt