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  1. #31
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    Aug 2013
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    Country: United States

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    Quote Originally Posted by oldbiscuit View Post
    Tim, The numbers are for show only. Turn the dial several times to the right, stopping at 0. Then continue to turn right 3 clicks. Then turn left 7 clicks. Turn right 6 clicks. It should stop on the 6th click and you should be able to pull the lock open. Mark
    Ah ha. I get it. I don't have the lock with me right now - but I did happen to have a J. B. Miller Keyless Lock Co. that works the same way (or at at least is suppose to - see subsequent post). That explains the detents every other number.

    I'll try this tonight when I get home.

  2. #32
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    Aug 2013
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    113
    Country: United States

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    Actually, I did have the Gougler with with and the 376 combination works! Thanks oldbiscuit!


    Now if I can just get the Miller Keyless to work...

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Frankfurt Main
    Posts
    705
    Country: Germany

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    Glad you got it open timo congratz !

  4. #34

    Default J.B.Miller Keyless (and comboless..) Lock

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    Stamped on the back are J.B.M.K.L CO KENT OH and Patent #s 1,825,467 & 1,929,598.
    Under the arch of the shackle it may be stamped 74 though this seems too short a number and it's like trying to read a doctor's note.
    The front dial also says J.B.M.K.L. CO KENT OH in place of any numbers or letters. It appears to turn infinitely far CCW but to have a positive stop when turning CW.
    Can anyone tell me the specific model? I've found a bunch it isn't...
    Any chance of the combo?
    TIA
    Gabriel

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    1,485
    Country: United States

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    This may have been their model 5 padlock, my notes are sketchy about model numbers. The red dot appeared in 1929 but the presence of the patent numbers dates it to 1933 or later, and probably no later than 1939 when they switched from stamped steel cases to die cast cases.

    The dial stop strongly suggests a dialing sequence starting with right-to-stop, left some number of clicks, right some number, etcetera, then pull on the shackle (these do not have a shackle spring, so they will not "pop" open). The "74" is probably a partial code number, they were usually three digits but placing this on the underside of the shackle was a poor choice because of wear. This was moved in later models. Can you tell if the 74 is the right-hand-side of the code, i.e. does it look like it might have been x74, or 74x?

  6. #36

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    Definitely not a spring loaded shackle; it is hinged on the left. There does not appear to be excessive wear on either side of the "74" where another digit may have been, it really looks as though it was just 74, improbable as that may be. I tried to get a close up but with the lock closed it's hard to get a good angle. There may be something stamped on the front face of the shackle, right at 12 o'clock, but it looks more like letters than numbers, OR or ON. Is 011 a valid code?
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  7. #37

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    As I have been researching this lock, and many like it, I am confused about the combinations that seem to instruct turning past the stop. I found a lock very similar to mine which instructed, "right to stop, L4-6-3-3." If you have turned to the right as far as it will turn, then turned four stops left, how do you then turn more than four stops right again?
    I apologize if this has been covered before.

  8. #38
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    Dec 2009
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    1,485
    Country: United States

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    Quote Originally Posted by GKanes View Post
    As I have been researching this lock, and many like it, I am confused about the combinations that seem to instruct turning past the stop. I found a lock very similar to mine which instructed, "right to stop, L4-6-3-3." If you have turned to the right as far as it will turn, then turned four stops left, how do you then turn more than four stops right again?
    The stop mechanism isn't simple. Once you hit it, and turn the other direction, the "stylus" is moved outwards and will not be recaptured for another full (or more) rotation. It's hard to describe without looking at a cutaway or at least some of the images you might find in this thread and others.

    Here is an image from US patent 1,825,467:

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    Notice the cam surfaces at 6:00, this horizontal "Y" will capture the stylus when you turn the knob CW which causes it to stop.

    US patent 2,441,895 describes a different stop mechanism that is, I believe, unique to the model 200 series.

  9. #39
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    Dec 2009
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    1,485
    Country: United States

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    Quote Originally Posted by GKanes View Post
    Definitely not a spring loaded shackle; it is hinged on the left. There does not appear to be excessive wear on either side of the "74" where another digit may have been, it really looks as though it was just 74, improbable as that may be. I tried to get a close up but with the lock closed it's hard to get a good angle. There may be something stamped on the front face of the shackle, right at 12 o'clock, but it looks more like letters than numbers, OR or ON. Is 011 a valid code?
    While 011 should be a valid code, it's most likely the 74. The Reed Padlock Code Book does show 074 but they have no combination listed for it. For the ones listed on either side of 74, there are 4-digit as well as 5-digit codes listed. This makes it tough to suggest trial and error. It may be possible to open the lock by slipping something thin past the non-hinge-side opening and tripping the locking bolt (later models thwart this attack). If you can get it open, it may be possible to determine the combination by careful observation but I've never been motivated enough to try.

  10. #40

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    Thank you for the explanation. I had seen that drawing but it makes much more sense to me now that you've described it. I will fuss with shimming it, and report back if I have any success. If anyone has further information on this lock, please chime in.
    Thanks again.

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