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They should be worth that if they are in good order, but you might be in for a shock with how long they take to remove. Very often these locks have intersected (or stepped) spindles and removing them necessitates delaminating the entire safe door (s) which is quite a job :shock:
BTW...
I excuse it as "being focused" but others might call it just being clueless.
In any case, I just noticed (today) the "Donate" and "Site Supporter" discussion.
I just sent along a little honorarium and would strongly encourage anyone else who benefits from their postings here to do the same.
Even if my lock had not sold, the assistance I received was quite valuable. And as it did sell (and through a contact on this site, as well) certainly throwing a little bit to site support is the least we can do. Many brokers would charge 10% of the sale price, so at 5% (my suggestion, not anyone else's) you're getting off cheap.
Enough ranting. I will go away now. And thanks to all, yet again.
Hmmm...
Somehow "delaminating" a door does NOT sound like fun.
I would have thought that the spindle just had some kind of retainer inside the door, but I don't remember the inside of the safe well enough to say. I had pulled all the plate assemblies at various points in time, but never actually tried to remove the housing or the dial.
Perhaps that's something to put off for a future visit back north as a side trip. Maybe this summer. But I am sure not driving 13 hours to find out I have to "delaminate a door" -- that's just such an impressive (and overwhelming) phrase -- I love it.
Thank you for the donation. It's much appreciated.
BTW - Should you ever make the trip to remove the locks do let me know, I would be interested in one . Just a word of caution please don't be tempted to remove them in part (ie minus the spindles) there are quite a lot of incomplete Halls locks in the marketplace for that reason, and as such (given the very high costs of custom making new spindles) they have quite low values.
I also have a Yale Model No: 1 c.1880. Double Pin-Dial Time Lock. It is a 56 hour version. The timers run smoothly so I would like to restore it back to mint condition. I am missing six parts,
1. original glass
2. both winding eyelets which were in the original glass
3. both indicator needles from the small white (60 minute?) dials
4. the case locking mechanism with key
I am looking for any literature and obviously any of the missing parts. My mechanism serial number is 1258 yet the case serial number is 1306. Do they normally have the same serial numbers?
I would greatly appreciate any help.
Kim in Texas :(grin):
needtosnooze
I also have a Yale Model No: 1 c.1880. Double Pin-Dial Time Lock. It is a 56 hour version. The timers run smoothly so I would like to restore it back to mint condition. I am missing six parts,
1. original glass
2. both winding eyelets which were in the original glass
3. both indicator needles from the small white (60 minute?) dials
4. the case locking mechanism with key
I am looking for any literature and obviously any of the missing parts. My mechanism serial number is 1258 yet the case serial number is 1306. Do they normally have the same serial numbers?
I would greatly appreciate any help.
Kim in Texas :(grin):
I also have a Yale Model No: 1 c.1880. Double Pin-Dial Time Lock. It is a 56 hour version. The timers run smoothly so I would like to restore it back to mint condition. I am missing six parts,
1. original glass2. both winding eyelets which were in the original glass
3. both indicator needles from the small white (60 minute?) dials and one gear which drives the minute hand dial
4. the case locking mechanism with key
I am looking for any literature and obviously any of the missing parts. My mechanism serial number is 1258 yet the case serial number is 1306,
I would greatly appreciate any help.
Kim in Texas :(grin):
Beautiful, safe , thanks to the images all help to add to the knowledge base .
The combination locks collectors items too - albeit at a distance, it is difficult to completely remove from safes
Remove backplate as well, such as cleaning to remove dirt and grunge . I would advise keeping the plate and the screws in the future though.The cleaned from includes a multiple of extremes , from wiping down with clean water to have something abrasives : ! : So , I tend to be more cautious because it means different things to different people !Thus , the degree of cleaning in a mild removal of dirt with a polished grunge light will not cause harm to the case , especially when the original finish was compromised .