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Hi, i am a very lucky man today : i finally found my graal milners after an epic 24hrs travel in Uk with fantastic people. that was exactly what i researched : big bolted door with the original transfert and "jeweler" interior amenagement (wood drawers with velvet carpet) i don't have the original key but a new one. there is #7035 on the up front left and #187899 on the up front right.
i will be happy if an expert could told me what's the year of this beauty.
merci beaucoup
i will be happy if an expert could told me what's the year of this beauty.
merci beaucoup[/QUOTE]
Stephane,
Congratulations, a real beauty.
This is a Milner List 3 which, from the lock number was made between 1881-1882.
This square bodied safe was made up until 1919 at which time Milner started to bend the ¼" steel bodies from a single plate.
thank you very much for the detail and fast reply. do you have an advice for the treatment ? keep it as this ? external resto with original color or fully customized ? i really like the interior so don't want to touch but the external don't match with my home. i don't want to do a "sacrilege"
Stephane,Quote:
Originally Posted by stephane
Of course it's up to you, but personally I would just give it a good clean to remove any loose dirt and then give it a coat of egg-shell varnish on the outside.
Ok i will consider seriously but some area are fully rust, anyway i will wait before attack. another point : do you have any ideas or example of embase to rise this safe and look matching ? i prefer and it's useful when safes are closer to eyes, attached a photo of a Bauche that i fully customize with a Fichet embase, and to tell true i don't use the Fichet one : to much down.
Stephane,Quote:
Originally Posted by stephane
As regards the rust, one possibility is just to remove it with a wire brush before varnishing but it that leaves it too unsightly then you then repaint the body but leave the door in the original finish.
I attach an illustration of some old safe stands from the 1920's. These are hand made by carpenters of very sturdy timbers. I would estimate that your Milner will weigh almost 500kgs.
Attachment 19494
Well done Stephane your Milners looks great well worth the travels I'm sure,love those chunky List 3s. By the way your Bauche and Fichet are stunners, the French definitely had the edge when it came to those ornate compact models :(inlove):
An alternative is to build an attractive brick plinth. Of course this is only suitable if you have a solid floor. Take the plinth up to the height you want. Attach some steel to the under side of the safe, so that it projects downwards. Fill the plinth with a weak mix of concrete and then settle the safe on top of it. If well done, it will look very good and the base fixing will enhance the security of your safe.
Of course make sure the safe is sited where you will want it to remain permanently!
Thanks guys for advices, i certainly go on in wood as safeman join attached. sure antique french safe a very good to work on : alone i am able to do what i want to move them and stairs aren't a problem. and easy to find here ! some months ago i found a very old "raoult" in center of Paris ! 1 time by month there is here "the monsters" people place on the sidewalk all big things they don't want. then i found it : crazy french !
to safeman : when you tell "egg-shell" varnish do you mean that's the finish look between shine and mat ?
attached the lost safe
A nicely made wooden stand will look good. Make it as strong as you can!
Eggshell is between gloss and matt.
Thanks chubby for details. does it possible to find original miller's key blank or something very close ? mine is an awful plated.
There are authentic blanks available. You would need to consult an English locksmith to get one.
Get your safe refinished as you want it, then get a stand made in quarter sawn oak. After that, worry about an authentic key!
Stephane,Quote:
Originally Posted by stephane
May I suggest that you contact this company https://www.d-r-lock-restoration-and-repair.com/
You will have to send then a working key and they will either attach a genuine Milner bow to the key or cut an entirly new key to the original pattern.
Hope that this helps. They do excellent work.
thanks for all goods informations ! i will explore all them and take time. don't want to ruine my beauty.
Stephane,Quote:
Originally Posted by stephane
In case you want to have your key restored by D.R.Lock Restoration, I attach a sample of their work on which an original Milner Bow has been brazed on to the shank of an 'awful' key.
The joint is barely visible. Attachment 19507
Thanks safeman for photo, i can homemade this key the only difficult is to have the old style lettering style hammered
do you have an idea if this is possible to buy this font style ? What’s the name of this tool in english ?
thanks
Thanks safeman for photo, i can homemade this key the only difficult is to have the old style lettering style hammered
do you have an idea if this is possible to buy this font style ? What’s the name of this tool in english ?
thanks
Stephane,Quote:
Originally Posted by stephane
Steel hand letter stamps or type stamps.
Thanks, What’s the size of lettering « milner’s » on original keys
thanks
Stephane, You will have to judge that for yourself from the photograph and the bow of your own key.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephane
Stephane 'old font' style stamps are difficult to find these days, the modern stamps don't have the serifs on the letters making them cleaner but modern looking. Old sets do come up for sale occasionally but they usually fetch high prices as they are sought after.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephane
Attachment 19508
Also, the original makers name wasnt stamped on individually by letter but with a single die cut block like my one here, you could do it with individual letters though, just takes more time and practise to get it all aligned perfect.
Attachment 19509
Regarding antique keyblanks I have hundreds but the ones with Milners style bows are long gone in 7-gauge. Most Milners pin keys were 7-g BSWG from memory, but these left now are too big at 5.5 and 6 gauge.
Attachment 19510
I can't think of anyone having original factory blanks hanging around so silver brazing a Milners bow on a non-plated period key like safeman suggested would probably be the easiest way of making it look authentic.
thanks guys for aid. it seem to be difficult to do something very close to original. i will check for old bump style and try the challenge. i will let you know.