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27-12-11 02:14 PM #11
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05-01-12 09:29 PM #12
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Wow, those old economy made locks.
If it is taken apart trying to press fit it afterwards seldom works
due to the deformed metal.
Forcing the kay back will damge the tiny levers even more.
Right now we can't tell if the levers have been moved past their
threshold of deformity?
Some times I am able to buy several locks like this and take one apart
to look for drill sites to solve problem like this.
Its unknown if this model you show is caste brass or a pot metal mix
with brass plating ?
There is usualy a bit of tolerance built into locks and keys.
If so a little wiggling similar to Impressioning may work?
Maybe some oil and candle heat may loosen up the mechanism?
Brian .................................................
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11-01-12 05:43 PM #13
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Brian. I think the brass part is solid brass and not plated. The other half is steel and is slightly rusting in spots. I could try oiling it, but with the key situation it looks like someone forced the wrong key.
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11-01-12 05:59 PM #14
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Hi Pete:
Perhaps one option is to use a pair of pliers and slowly turn the key to the upright position?
If the person just twisted the stuck key by hand pressure then the damage may be slight. Although there could be a small bitof shaving of the levers? It is up to you if you want to try. If the pliers make the key too ahrd to turn back then just leave it. Some of the frozen lever locks I workedon in the past had small deformities that could be hammered flat
afterwards, but in your case it may not be possible.
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11-01-12 11:11 PM #15
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If I was hired to fix your lock problem, the method I would probably use if the key was stuck, would be to break the head of the key so the lock could be removed. Odds are the stuck key isn't the right one anyway. And making a copy from the broken one is no big deal if it is. The locks can easily be opened by using a rectangular shaped punch that fits within the two spots on the back. And easily reassembled with just a little staking. But this is a job for a locksmith that has the both the keyblanks and the capability to fit a flat steel lever key. There are many old time skilled locksmiths out there and they could probably use the work. Doug
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22-01-12 10:56 PM #16
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Thanks Doug and Brian for the info. Both locks are open and the one just has the key stuck in it, so both drawers open. I don't know if I want to try forcing the key and break it more. I am in no rush, so maybe I will wait and take it to a locksmith. There is one close to me who aparently has a good reputation. I don't know what it will cost, but I don't have a use for it now, and I can find other things to spend money on. I'm just slowly tinkering with the safe and would like to get the locks working.....eventually.
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22-01-12 11:16 PM #17
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You are welcome Pete.
Solutions to fixing and repairing antique locks/keys are
always fascinating.
Brian ...................................
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26-01-12 06:41 AM #18
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Brian what is more fascinating is your knowledge on these things! There are so many mechanisms and brands. Its fun to see the fake lock and key forum and see how people explain the reasons why they are not real. And to have people tell me how to fix my old safe that is 100 years old without looking at the safe is neat. I made four posts here on completely different locks and got great answers on all of them.
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26-01-12 06:14 PM #19
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Hi Pete:
[quote] Brian what is more fascinating is your knowledge on these things! There are so many mechanisms and brands.
*****Thanks Pete, I think that there may be a few basic discoveries and over time it is a continuous re-discovery/re-cycling of the basics with slight variations.
There is a Bolt or a latch that can only be moved with some type of key which is either solid or psychological as with a Safe Dial.
The bolt/latch may be a Partial Turn type, or else one or more turns of the key.
One padlock stamped with a date from the 14th century has 4 rotating
Moons. When alligned it allows for another part to be slid and opens the
keyhole. But the key doesn't look like it belongs to the lock. Then after opening a hidden back plate can be opened by pushing the key further
into the keyhole past the locking bolt. The hidden compartment had a
samll piece of paper with a visual solution to a puzzle. Being iron based the ink was a reddish color on the handmade paper. So the communication was written in the universal language of graphics LOL
[quote] Its fun to see the fake lock and key forum and see how people explain the reasons why they are not real.
*****Yes it is a lively debate. But some security deterrence relies on
cover & deception to conceal the keyway or key. A friend went to Egypt
and bought a antique Egyptian wooden lock which contained an extra concealed pin in the wooden key to prevent others from picking the pegs.
[quote] And to have people tell me how to fix my old safe that is 100 years old without looking at the safe is neat. I made four posts here on completely different locks and got great answers on all of them.
******After repairing some types of locking mechanisms it seems that
certain acquired wear flaws turn up time after time. Flaws may be found in
the basic design; from wear and tear; clent abuse; environmetal decay and probably others not listed.
All-in-all it is a most fascinating pursuit filled with pleasure and learning opportunities. When I stop learning then I know something is wrong.
That point hasn't come yet and I doubt that it ever will.
Brian .........................................
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29-01-12 09:55 PM #20
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I got both of the CCLs working!
If you guys would have just told me the key is not supposed to be removed when it is in the unlocked position! It was a matter of just using the access hole to put the locks in the locked position and putting the correct key in.
I pried the lock apart myself (against everyone's recomendations) and discovered how it worked and saw if I had only locked the lock using the small access hole and inserted the key it would have fixed it. But while it was apart I inspected and polished the internals. Nothing was bent! So I ground the metal tab square, put the two halves back together, and used a center punch on the tab to get the two to fit together. Since I then knew how the mechanism worked, I was able to unscrew the lock with the stuck key (wrong key) from the drawer and use an ice pick in the access hole to lock the lock and spin the key at the same time. So I didn't even need to take the second lock apart. And the correct key works perfect. It is amazing how simple those locks are also.
---------- Post added at 04:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:50 PM ----------
So it is a flaw that they put two identical locks in a cabinet that use different keys without marking on the outside which key open which lock. Since it is such a fragile mechanism, I would think they would stamp the lock number on the outside of the lock where it can be seen instead of on the inside.
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