S&G 8400 (Possible) with teflon wheels

**Sugar** · 13-08-10 12:19 AM

Guys, I'm new here and just lucked onto this site whilst flicking through Google.

I'm not a locksmith but I love playing around with this sort of stuff

I have an S&G 3 wheeler with teflon wheels. I'm led to believe by the S&G website that it is an 8400 with the little arrow switch on the end of the dial.

I plan on stripping it down as it is full of grease and grunge.

I have a little experience with Manifoils, non of which is professional, simply pull apart, clean it up and usually successful, with a little crocus paper.

This S&G is from a small safe I picked up at an auction years ago and have not had the time to do anything with. Now's the time I guess.

I have managed to find the instructions to change the combo, and I have the appropriate key.

My question - Is there a cheatsheet to show me how to properly dismantle this combo and put it back together again or can someone please put something together to help me out.

I've been told that the brass wheels should not have any lubricant on them, understandable, but what about the teflon wheels. In the past, I have used, very sparingly, graphite rubbed onto the inner spindle of the wheels to provide a little slip after cleaning off with crocus paper. Would this be appropriate for the teflon wheels (Not the crocus paper bit)?

Thanks for any help you can provide me with,

Sugar

**Halflock** · 13-08-10 01:26 PM

Any safe lock should have a "Bit" of lube on any moving surface between parts. What is a bit? If you take some litheum grease and put some on your finger about 1/64 inch thick and 1/4 around and then coat your finger with it and then use your finger to lightly touch the parts where they move against each other that is enough lube for normal operation for a year. If it is a lock demo like this lock sounds like it may never need to be serviced again for a decade.

A safe lock should be serviced once a year if it in use. Really if the lock is in use it should be serviced by someone that knows what to look for in problems BEFORE they happen. Nothing sucks more than a locked safe that will not open... except maybe a safe that someone has tried to break into.

Take is slow and try to keep all parts in order on a clean cloth as you take it apart clean each part, lay it out. Take pictures of the lock as you take it apart so you have a record of how it came apart. Digital cameras have cheap film.

**Doug MacQueen** · 16-08-10 05:16 PM

It would probably be the 8400 unless it is a very early version of that manipulation resistant lock. The inner portion of the Delrin wheels will be standard brass where they ride on the wheel post and Halflocks lube advice sounds fine. Once the back cover is pulled pay close attention to how the center shaft engages into drive cam. Align the wheels under the fence and turn the the dial to 0. Operate the butterfly on the dial 1/4 turn or so back and forth while watching inside. As the driver cam spreads apart, it allows the lever fence to fall into place. Taking a lock apart and putting it back together is much easier if you understand the proper functioning prior to disassembly. The center shaft pulls straight out of the lock but has to be properly timed on reassembly. Pull the spline key with sidecutters as if you were pulling a nail with a claw hammer.

---------- Post added at 01:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:01 PM ----------

Forgot to add that there should not be any lube or dirt at all on the little brass rings (flys) of each wheel or the grooves they ride in.

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